In March 1991 Illinois climbers discovered that 52 acres of Mississippi Palisades had been designated a "nature preserve" and would be closed to climbers. The Access Fund provided seed money and support as locals formed the Mississippi Palisades Climbing Coalition and began negotiating with the Department of Conservation.
A letter-writing campaign was immediately effective, and precipitated an interim agreement to allow limited climbing in the nature preserve, pending a review of climbing impacts. The Access Fund agreed to pay for an improved trail system, a plant inventory/climbing impacts study, and an educational brochure. Eventually, the Access Fund paid over $10,000 to complete the landmark plant study, which has since been used as a reference by land managers across the nation.
Four years of volunteerism and good-faith negotiating paid off this July when local climbers met with the Illinois Nature Preserves Commission. Commissioners said they were "very impressed by [the MPCC's] work and commitment," and that no other user group had ever committed so much funding and resources to a state natural area.
The Commission then agreed not to ban climbing altogether and to continue the interim policy which allows climbing on the best crag, the Sentinel, and closes the Sun Buttress and Forgotten Wall. This policy will be reviewed every three years, and the MPCC will work with state officials to support it.
Rob Siebens, co-founder of the MPCC, said local climbers were "thrilled" their perseverance had been rewarded, and that the key to the compromise was "climbers' good conduct and self-control."
For more information, contact Rob Siebens at 708.545.9011.
When he's not exhorting Access Fund staff to come sample the quality sandstone near his home in Carbondale, Eric is working with officials from the Shawnee National Forest on climbing policy and management. In August Ulner reported that the Shawnee would complete work this fall on an improved parking area for Jackson Falls, the principal climbing attraction of the region.
In addition, the Shawnee plans to build five new campsites with tables and a vault toilet. Ulner said that an Access Fund grant to pay for an information kiosk and paving materials was the catalyst in getting Shawnee to make additional improvements at Jackson Falls which directly benefit climbers.
For more information, call Vertical Heartland guide service at 618.549.9198.
Earlier this year, the Lincoln National Forest threatened to ban climbing at this obscure area, but a coordinated response from local climbers and the Access Fund has led to a management plan that will allow climbing to continue.
First explored by climbers in 1992, Sitting Bull Falls sports a mere 14 routes, on excellent limestone tufa. The Forest Service didn't even know climbing was occurring here until last year. Concern over bolts and other impacts prompted a hasty, if uneducated, reaction, which goes something like: "If we don't know anything about this type of activity, it must be inappropriate or illegal, so we should prohibit it."
Local climbers, led by John Gogas and Trent Atwood, responded quickly with personal visits to Forest Service officials, and the Access Fund put these officials in touch with an agency recreation officer familiar with climbing, who confirmed that climbing is an acceptable use of national forest lands.
In July, the Lincoln released a Scoping Report on its proposed Capital Investment Project for Sitting Bull Falls. Its preferred alternative would designate areas where climbing would be allowed. Local climbers have volunteered to perform cleanups, trail work, and other services. The Access Fund has offered to provide support for these projects.
Call John Gogas (915.689.3905) or Sam Davidson, Access Fund Communications Director (408.424.4705), for more information.
Mt. Yonah is popular with more than just climbers. The Army conducted its first mountain warfare training there in 1936, and Army Rangers still use the area's fine granite for exercises. Hikers and mountain bikers also were barred by the new gate, prompting local businesses to back efforts to restore access, saying they would lose $2 million per year. Although the issue may not be resolvable in probate court, as was originally hoped, local climbers are continuing to work on legal recourse.
Climbers should not visit Mt. Yonah while this problem is being resolved. Local activist Chris Hall suggests that donations to help this cause be directed to the Access Fund.
For the latest word on Mt. Yonah, call Chris Hall at 404.932.5426.
Perhaps of greatest concern to climbers are the proposed "use fee" that would apply only to climbers and equestrians, and a proposal to allow climbing only in a few designated areas along the Parkway.
The Access Fund's staunch position is that climbers should not be subjected to discriminatory treatment or rules that do not apply equally to other traditional recreational uses. Climbers are urged to provide input to this plan.
Call Bambi Teague at Parkway headquarters, 704.271.4779 ext. 209 or Burton Moomaw at 704.963.9528 for more information.
This July, local climbers were startled to find that bolt hangers had been removed from the Con Cave crag and other areas. According to local activist and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Chris Watford, Con Cave is "the Hell Cave of Alabama," with many hard projects.
Watford said an NPS ranger removed hangers and quickdraws because they were "unsightly" and because the Con Cave might be an "Indian rock shelter," although no research had been done to support this notion.
Watford discussed the situation with both the ranger who initiated the hanger removal and the new park's superintendent. It was agreed that the missing hangers would be returned to climbers and could be replaced. Climbers were asked not to leave quickdraws in place and to observe a moratorium on new routes until a Climbing Management Plan is prepared.
Earlier this year climbers staged a major cleanup of the canyon, which has served as a junkyard. At the same time, National Guard helicopters airlifted some 600 derelict cars out of the canyon! Work on the Climbing Plan is to begin this fall, and climbers are encouraged to participate.
To get involved, call Don Forrester, Superintendent, at 205.845.9605, or Chris Watford at 404.992.5400.
Specifically, the Emmys area, the Fire Tower, and the Dee Tennessee area are all closed with access blocked. The Lovers Leap area is still open but could be shut down in the next year due to a shopping mall. The Access Fund has initiated efforts to preserve some access to this historic climbing area.
Call Regional Coordinator Chris Watford at 404.992.5400 for details.
In addition to giving a $1000 grant (matched by the City of Scottsdale) to the McDowell Sonoran Land Trust, the Access Fund paid for a get-out-the-vote mailing carried out by Phoenix Rock Gym and the Arizona Mountaineering Club to over 2,000 people.
The "Save the McDowells" measure will raise at least $8 million per year for land acquisition, through a small increase in the city's sales tax. The measure passed by a nearly 2-1 margin, testament to the outstanding work of local activists. Climbers raised over $10,000 and mustered voter support to help the cause.
The City of Scottsdale and the McDowell Sonoran Land Trust are partners in buying undeveloped tracts in the McDowells. Tom Matthews, Access Fund Regional Coordinator, praised the Land Trust for its "effective campaign to educate residents about the value of the McDowells," and said climbers are seeking to have the land containing the Gardeners Wall trailhead given the highest priority for acquisition. This tract provides access to the popular Tom's Thumb and Gardeners Wall crags.
For more information, call Tom Matthews at 602.756.6168.
For more information, call Rick Thompson at 303.545.6772 or Leslie Brown at 203.758.6124.
This May, Barnes and Jacobsen led a group of volunteers for ten days of trail improvements, which focused on rerouting the trail to the West Face of the South Peak. Paid for by a $2500 grant from the Access Fund, the new trail goes up the gully which leads past Ecstacy Junior and The Burn. Climbers moved talus blocks weighing up to 500 pounds to stabilize the gully and form stairs. These stairs eventually will reach the hemlock grove above, and the trail to routes near Le Gourmet will receive similar treatment.
While this trail work proceeds there is a real threat of rockfall on the trail below - watch for signs about the danger. Another work detail is planned for this fall, and volunteers are needed.
To sign up for a work weekend, call Karen Jacobsen at 304.567.2085.