Concerns identified in the IGMP include "damage to resources," limited camping and parking opportunities, chalk and slings left on routes ("a detraction for scenic viewers"), and bolting, which "may not be appropriate in the NCA, or may need to be restricted to certain areas."
The plan prohibits "alteration of rock surfaces by gluing, chipping or chiseling," climbing within 50 feet of rock art, and new bolt placements in wilderness study areas (WSAs), which include almost all of the backcountry climbing at Red Rocks. In addition, the BLM will create a "Climbing Advisory Council" of local climbers, to review proposals for replacing bolts in WSAs (a "bolting permit" would be issued to those the BLM deems acceptable), and to assist with work projects and education. Commercial guiding will be limited to "ensure that guides are qualified and avoid overcrowding."
Red Rocks Manager Dave Wolf justified the bolting restrictions by saying that bolts were considered "facilities, like trails," and that to keep resource conditions static in proposed wilderness neither new trails nor bolts would be allowed. Wolf added that his biggest worries were "on-the-ground impacts," including illegal camping and informal trails.
In late August the BLM issued specific guidelines for bolting in wilderness and wilderness study areas. The Interim Wilderness Management Policy prohibits bolts unless "necessary for health and safety in the use and enjoyment of wilderness values." You may wonder what this really means. After all, bolts are sometimes necessary for climber safety in wilderness, and climbing is a unique and traditional way to enjoy wilderness values.
According to Rob Hallie at the BLM's Washington, DC headquarters, this language is intended to give local managers discretion in addressing the bolting issue in their land use plans. However, Red Rocks has chosen to interpret this language very conservatively, contrary to previous agency policy and with no basis in resource data. Never before has any agency suggested that bolting in proposed wilderness would so degrade the area's character that it would no longer qualify for wilderness if this use is allowed to continue. In fact, at least one designated wilderness area managed by the BLM, Baboquivari Peak in Arizona, was created even though climbers had been placing bolts there for thirty years.
Broad, ill-defined federal policy such as this could adversely affect dozens of climbing areas around the country. Access Fund Policy Analyst Paul Minault commented, "Limitations on recreational use are supposed to be based on documented resource conditions, and are supposed to be the least restrictive measures possible to achieve management objectives. The Red Rocks plan clearly ignores this guidance."
There is no opportunity to comment on the new Red Rocks management plan-"there was plenty of public input during our scoping period," said Wolf. However, the IGMP can be amended at any time. Climbers are urged to call Red Rocks Manager Dave Wolf (702.647.5074) and recommend that new bolting be limited but not banned in Red Rocks backcountry.
For more information on climbing policy, or to volunteer for the Climbing Advisory Council, call 702.647.5000. To encourage the BLM to take a more reasonable approach to managing climbing in wilderness, call Rob Hallie, BLM Wilderness Specialist, at 202.452.7703.
During these two months, do not park on the road leading into the campground. "No Parking" signs will be posted and enforced to allow heavy equipment to access the campground on this road. Also note that no camping in cars will be allowed while the campground is closed. Dispersed camping can be found in Strawberry Canyon.
The best bet is to park at Twin Bridges (past Strawberry) and hike in. This will add some time to the approach, but it will keep you out of trouble with the rangers or Strawberry Lodge.