The revised Comprehensive Management Plan for City of Rocks National Reserve in Idaho should be released in January 1995. In draft form the CMP was criticized for its anti-climbing bias, but several hundred written responses from climbers helped change its emphasis. The Access Fund played an instrumental role in the planning process, and funded mailings to generate climber comments on the draft plans. Additionally, the Access Fund has paid over $7000 for trail improvements and climber toilets at City of Rocks, and is investigating the purchase of private properties there to resolve access problems.
The Climbing Management Plan for the City also is being revised and should be released with the Comprehensive Plan. Many improvements are proposed which would benefit climbers and help preserve natural resources at the Reserve. However, the Twin Sisters, which offer some of the longest routes at City of Rocks, will remain off limits to recreational activities. Although a study of climbing impacts found that climbers cause little environmental impact and do not "adversely affect the historic viewshed," an influential advisory group recommended that the site be closed to public use to preserve its historic value as a landmark on the old California Trail. Also, climbing access to crags on private property, such as the Dolphin and part of Elephant Rock, remains problematic. Climbers who fail to heed posted signs are being cited for trespassing. Call City of Rocks at 208.824.5519 for more information.
Lovers Leap, CA
Long-time problems finally will be addressed at this classic crag, beginning next spring. New camping and parking sites will be added, and existing sites improved, along with new toilets, picnic tables and storage boxes. Also, a new bulletin board will be built, to help reduce fire hazards and trespassing on adjacent private property.
Funding for these upgrades comes partly from REI and the Access Fund, but the lion's share derives from a class action lawsuit filed against several mortuaries and the Neptune Society, who were supposed to air-drop the cremated remains of more than 5000 people over the Sierra backcountry, but who simply dumped the deceased on a private property. The award from this lawsuit is intended to go toward projects in the Sierra which benefit the environment. The US Forest Service is counting on climbers to provide labor for this project. The Crags Climbing Club will organize volunteers; call Jennifer Gibson at 916.421.6876 for more information.
Donner Summit, CA
This popular cragging area near Lake Tahoe has a growing human waste problem. Thanks to local climber Eric Perlman, an agreement has been worked out between the US Forest Service and climbers to provide a portable toilet at the parking area for the Snowshed Wall. Climbers are encouraged to use this toilet.
New River Gorge, WV
At "The New," the Access Fund provided a $1300 grant to pay for new climber facilities. Five new ladders will replace old units at the main egress points along the rim. These ladders will be built and installed by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club; the first was put in place in October. The old ladders were "full of holes, shaky, and definitely runout," according to the Access Fund's Rick Thompson. Part of the grant goes toward a revised edition of the Climber Information brochure. Also, the Access Fund is looking into joining the National Park Service in a cooperative effort to acquire the Nuttall property, private land which contains over 600 routes and the entirety of the Endless Wall. This is an extraordinary proposition, in terms of cost--climber-philanthropists, where are you? Contact the Access Fund, 303.545.6772, for more info.
Cooper's Rock State Park, WV
Not far from The New, at Cooper's Rock State Park, West Virginia, the Access Fund made a $700 grant to pay for a climbers' information brochure and bulletin board at the main parking lot. This state park has a long climbing history, and is an important resource for Pittsburgh-area climbers. Cooper's Rock has shown a willingness to work with climbers on issues of impact, bolting, and trails.
Minnewaska State Park, NY
In 1993, Minnewaska completed a Master Plan which proposes to allow climbing at several sites in the park (it has been an illegal activity up till now). The rock found here is similar in quality and climbing to the nearby Shawangunks. The park will complete studies to evaluate potential impacts of recreational uses, and is seeking advisors in archaeology, biology, botany, bryology, lichenology, zoology, ornithology, entomology, and data acquisition to help. Climbers with professional experience in these fields are encouraged to contact Cathy Rees, Environmental Research Coordinator, at 914.255.2011.
The Grotto, CA
This popular climbing area near Sonora, California, is threatened with closure. This area is owned by the Bureau of Reclamation (BOR), which decided in late September to impose a moratorium on climbing until environmental impacts can be evaluated. However, the BOR has not followed through by placing signs or otherwise putting the closure into effect. A new Resource Management Plan will analyze climbing as well as other recreational uses. Access Fund representative Tom Addison will help prepare this plan, and is negotiating to have the climbing moratorium stayed in the interim. For more information, contact Tom Addison at 510.559.9666.
Singing Hills, CA
The Singing Hills near San Diego, also known as Crest, is closed to climbing for the time being. This proliferation of granite outcrops has been visited by climbers since the 1970's. However, this area is private property, and the land owner is concerned about liability. Climbers are requested to stay away from Crest while the Access Fund and the Crag Junkies Climbing Club work to address the land owner's concerns. For more information, contact David Goode at 619.697.0118.