Climbers will have to sweat it out a little longer--there's still no word yet whether fixed anchors will be allowed in wilderness areas. Despite official estimates that new regulations of climbing in wilderness would be approved some time this year, the four federal agencies developing these regulations have yet to issue any new policy.
For the past several years the Access Fund has campaigned to elevate the debate over bolting to a broader and more rational level. Currently, we are continuing to negotiate with federal land managers, seeking assistance from elected officials, and developing new resources (a national database of climbing in wilderness) to resolve this difficult issue.
As detailed in this summer's newsletter (see Access Notes vol. 7) , our efforts have met with measurable success. Climbers, federal wilderness managers, and leading environmental groups are now approaching this issue from a "partnership" perspective. Still, until new regulations affirm that fixed anchors--properly managed--are legal and acceptable in wilderness, climbers' ability to assume responsibility for our own safety while climbing remains threatened.
Now is a critical time. Can you imagine being arrested for leaving a sling to descend off a backcountry peak, or for placing a bolt in an emergency? YOU CAN DO TWO THINGS RIGHT NOW TO SAVE BASIC CLIMBING FREEDOMS!
(1) Don't use a power drill anywhere near a wilderness area. Climbers' agreement not to use power drills (unless authorized) in controversial areas is crucial to repairing our public image.
(2) Write letters to influential land managers--it is vitally important to keep the pressure on. Urge the following people to support climbing policy which allows fixed anchors in wilderness, and manages fixed anchor use so as to preserve wilderness values.
* George Frampton, Assistant Secretary of Interior, Department of Interior, 1849 C Street, NW, Washington, DC 20240.
* Keith Corrigall, Chief of Wilderness Resources, Bureau of Land Management, 1849 C Street, NW, 204LS, Washington, DC 20240-9998.
* John Twiss, Wilderness Program Coordinator, US Forest Service, PO Box 96090, Washington, DC, 20090-6090.