The Access Fund also has provided $2000 for design of a new, low-impact trail system for Mississippi Palisades, and will contribute more funding to construct these trails. Local climber activism at Mississippi Palisades warrants this kind of support, as the Mississippi Palisades Climbers Coalition has raised over $7000 to help pay for the plant study and trail system, and has conducted cleanups and other community service projects at the park.
The Access Fund endorses management policy based on field data and on "partnerships" with climbers, relying principally on education to achieve management objectives. In fact, relations between climbers and the Illinois land managers have improved greatly since 1991. The Access Fund will meet in August with the MPCC and the Nature Preserves Commission to review the results of the study and their implications for climbing management at Mississippi Palisades.
Shawangunks, NY Earlier this year the Access Fund delivered a grant of $5000 to the Mohonk Preserve, the remarkable privately-owned natural area near New Paltz, New York, which contains the famous Shawangunk cliffs. This grant will be used to help pay for the new parking area constructed last year to alleviate parking and traffic problems. This grant comes on the heels of a $30,000 grant the Access Fund made last spring to the Preserve, for acquisition of a private inholding atop the Near Trapps cliff that was proposed for development. In making these grants, the Access Fund recognized the long-time support of the Mohonk Preserve for climbing at the Gunks. The Access Fund also is preparing a climber's information brochure for the Gunks, to bolster environmental awareness and minimize impacts on this very popular area.
City of Rocks, ID In March the Access Fund approved a grant of $1600 for trail construction at City of Rocks National Reserve in southern Idaho. This funding was used to buy materials required for improving trails leading to the Inner City section of the reserve. Maura Longden, Climbing Ranger at City of Rocks, called the grant "Very important, a great example of how climbers can help both the Park Service and themselves." Climbers' support for progressive climbing management, such as that which has evolved at City of Rocks, is crucial to preserving both the natural resources we depend on and the basic freedoms we expect while climbing.
On a related issue, there has not yet been a final determination of whether climbing will be allowed to continue on the Twin Sisters, which are a National Historic Landmark. The draft Comprehensive Management Plan for City of Rocks proposes to allow climbing on the North Sister ("The Eberhorn"), but would limit new route activity. There are few routes on the South Sister, which sees little climbing traffic, and which is more prominent in the "historic viewshed."
Owens River Gorge, CA Owens River Gorge, near Bishop, California, has become a sport climbing Mecca on the order of a New River Gorge or American Fork. Unlike these other areas, ORG is on private land. Local climbers have maintained good relations with the Los Angeles Department of Water & Power, which owns the gorge. Their efforts have paid off; despite the large increase in climbers visiting ORG, there have been no access problems. Recently the Access Fund provided a grant of $800 to the local climbers group, CRAG, for "resource protection, administration and cleanup." Access Fund executive director John Juraschek noted that ORG locals have "an enviable record of environmental and access-related activism." The Access Fund also has pledged as much as $7,500 to help pay for self-composting toilets at ORG, to relieve the worst impact problem there. Climbers are strongly urged to dispose of their waste on the rim of the gorge, not down along the rising Owens River. For more information on Owens River Gorge, contact Wilson's Eastside Sports at (619) 873-7520.
Shawnee National Forest, IL This summer the Access Fund provided a $450 grant to the Southern Illinois Climbers Alliance (SICA) to pay for improved parking at Jackson Falls, the crown jewel of Illinois climbing, and for a new climbers bulletin board at the site. Jackson Falls is an unspoiled natural area, with great sandstone crags and a gorgeous waterfall and swimming hole, but the access road and parking are often in poor condition. SICA, which has developed good relations with local Forest Service officials, worked out an agreement whereby the agency would build the new parking area if climbers would pay for materials. Visiting climbers should consult the new bulletin board for local regulations and recommendations for minimizing impact in the area. For more information on climbing in southern Illinois, call local guide Eric Ulner at (618) 549-9198.
Lovers Leap, CA This famous crag suffers from a shortage of parking and camping. Two years ago the Access Fund, in conjunction with local climbers, worked with the El Dorado National Forest to develop solutions to these problems. Recreational Equipment, Inc. gave the Access Fund a $2500 grant to pay for initial improvements to the campground and parking area, although these improvements have been delayed by the El Dorado's lack of staff and funding. This June, however, the Access Fund obtained agreement to install a new climber's bulletin board, which will help reduce problems of trespassing, camping out of bounds, etc. Jerry Klatt of the CRAGS climbing club has volunteered to build this bulletin board. The Access Fund will provide $1200 of the REI grant for materials. Also, the Forest Service plans to install a new toilet at the Leap by September 1994.
Rifle, CO Last fall, the Access Fund approved a grant of $5000 for construction of a new campground at Rifle Canyon City Park. The Access Fund has been working with the Rifle Climbers Coalition (RCC) to preserve access and provide better facilities for climbers at this beautiful limestone area. This grant currently is on hold pending assurance from the Rifle town council that the money will be used as intended. The RCC has done an excellent job of converting hostility from non-climbers into a climber-friendly management plan for the canyon. Rifle has fee requirements for camping and day-use and seasonal passes, and there are some restrictions on new route development. Contact the Access Fund at (303) 545-6772 for more information.