Safe Harbor, PA Safe Harbor, near Lancaster, Pennsylvania, first saw serious climbing activity in 1990, but word of the hot new area spread quickly. In 1993 Safe Harbor was closed to climbing, victimized by its instant popularity. Recently, an agreement was reached which will convert Safe Harbor to a multi-use public trail where climbing is allowed.
The climbs at Safe Harbor are found along a disused railroad bed owned by Conrail, which does not allow public recreation on its land. Local climbers Eric Horst and Bob Perna, who established many of the climbs at Safe Harbor, have led the charge to reopen the area. The Access Fund quickly began assisting their efforts, and approached Conrail about purchasing the property.
After these initial inquiries, the Access Fund and local climbers teamed up with Friends of the Atglen-Susquehanna Trail (FAST). The Access Fund gave a $1000 grant to FAST to print and distribute a newsletter, to raise awareness of the public benefit of the Safe Harbor railway corridor and to raise funds for its purchase. Now, says Perna, "the long-term prospects for Safe Harbor are excellent."
After negotiations with Rails to Trails advocates, Conrail has agreed to sell the Safe Harbor railway corridor. Still at issue is Conrail's concern over the condition of existing bridges along the 23 miles of property under discussion. The Public Utilities Commission must certify that these historic bridges are suitable for use as part of the trail.
The Safe Harbor corridor is likely to be opened for public use sometime in 1995. Climbers may be asked to "adopt" the Safe Harbor corridor--to help provide maintenance--and other users will be asked to "adopt" other segments of the trail. Meanwhile, climbers are urged to comply with the closure of the crags, so as not to jeopardize negotiations.
In July the Access Fund pledged an additional $1500 to FAST for its efforts to raise the estimated $1.5 to $2 million needed to purchase the land and install improvements. Call Rick Thompson at (412) 741-1060 for Safe Harbor information.
North Table Mountain, CO Early in 1994, the Access Fund reached agreement with the owner of North Table Mountain, above Golden, Colorado, to donate a portion of his property to the Access Fund. This acreage will include the basalt crags rimming the mountain, as well as land below the crags for access.
North Table Mountain offers short, fun routes that stay warm in winter. The Access Fund will preserve this land from development and for climbing. The Access Fund also will pay for construction of a new access road and parking area on the southeast slope of the mountain, and climber-support facilities, including new trails, toilets, and signs.
To maintain the generally positive relationship climbers have with area homeowners, climbers are advised to observe local speed limits, keep dogs on leashes, and to keep the noise level low when hiking to and from North Table Mountain.
Howard's Knob, NC Howard's Knob is a premier bouldering area near Boone, North Carolina. In 1993 a 65-acre parcel of land containing the Howard's Knob boulders was purchased by a real estate developer. The developer proposed to build on this land, and closed it to climbing.
Local residents, Appalachian State University students, environmentalists and climbers joined forces to oppose this development. With assistance from the Access Fund, this coalition formed the Watauga High Country Land Trust, whose mission is to preserve natural areas around Boone. Joey Hensen, an active Boone climber, has played a leading role in the formation and action of the Land Trust.
The Watauga Land Trust quickly approached the owner of Howard's Knob about selling the property. The Access Fund awarded a grant of $2500 to the Watauga Land Trust to commission a property appraisal, $250 for fundraising, and pledged additional funding. The appraisal was completed earlier this year and an offer was made to the owner, which has not been accepted. In June the owner named a price far above the appraised value. Despite this, the Land Trust is "more optimistic and more determined than ever," according to Henson, and is working to secure an option on the property before launching a major fundraising campaign.
Climbing at Howard's Knob currently is not permitted. For more information on Howard's Knob, contact Joey Hensen at (704) 264-2511.
Cradle Rock, NJ A multi-year campaign to protect this little-known climbing area has culminated with a remarkable victory. Thanks to the vision of local climber John Anderson, the Cradle Rock boulder field will be preserved for public enjoyment as the Mt. Rose Natural Area.
Cradle Rock, outside of Princeton, New Jersey, has been visited by such climbing luminaries as Steve Wunsch, Henry Barber and Colin Lantz. In addition to fine bouldering and toproping, the area features wetlands supporting rare plants and birds.
Since 1990 Anderson has been working with the Access Fund, the Delaware & Raritan Greenway, and the Sierra Club to secure permanent protection for Cradle Rock. The Access Fund contributed $400 for a newsletter and mailing, while Anderson prepared an Environmental Impact Statement for the proposed conversion from private property to state land.
The Cradle Rock boulder field has been under private ownership. Now, matching funds from government sources will allow the D&R Greenway to purchase this land and preserve it as part of the Stony Brook Greenway. The Greenway is an unbroken stretch of natural areas extending through most of New Jersey.
The Cradle Rock success is testament to the power of persistence. Anderson began his campaign to preserve the area for climbing virtually by himself, and finished with the backing of powerful environmental groups and government agencies. Originally, Anderson proposed that the state act to preserve only 12 acres at Cradle Rock. The final proposal calls for acquisition and preservation of 128 acres. For more information on Cradle Rock, call John Anderson at (609) 267-3308.
Index Town Walls, WA Climbers' long association with the Index Town Walls, near Seattle, Washington, is paying dividends. Recent efforts by local climbers, including Max Dufford and Greg Collum, Access Funders Elden Altizer and Matt Hyde, and Steve Swenson of the AAC, have resulted in permanent protection for much of this famous climbing area.
This protection was achieved in November 1993, with a land swap between the State Department of Natural Resources and Department of State Parks. This deal absorbed the Upper Town Wall into state park land. The Upper Wall has received considerable attention from climbers in recent years.
The Lower Town Wall at Index, where many of the area's classic routes are located, remains private property. However, the Access Fund has pledged to help ensure that this land is similarly preserved for public enjoyment. State officials are presently negotiating with the landowners; the Access Fund is keeping the pressure on to conclude an agreement. In the meantime, access to the Upper and Lower Town Walls is unrestricted.
The Access Fund also will pay for a special memorial to be built at Index, in remembrance of Mark Bebie, a Seattle climber who died in a climbing accident in Canada and left 10% of his estate to the Access Fund. This generous bequeathal enabled the Access Fund to establish a restricted endowment fund.
Upper West Bolton Wall, VT In 1992 the landowner closed off access this small but important crag. Local climbers alerted the Access Fund, which suggested alternatives to the closure. Last year, the owner agreed to subdivide his property and donate the crag to the Access Fund if climbers would pay for associated costs.
According to Acquisitions Committee Chair Rick Thompson, the property survey will begin soon, and the Access Fund will pay for it. Next, agreements need to be finalized on an easement to the crag and a suitable location for parking. The Access Fund will assume title to the West Upper Bolton Wall by this fall, if all goes as planned.
Foster Falls, TN Foster Falls is a natural area featuring over 100 quality climbs near South Pittsburg, Tennessee. Unfortunately, Foster Falls suffered the same fate as many other crags along the magnificent Cumberland Plateau when the landowner closed the area after a couple of climbing accidents. However, climbers had developed good relations with the owner, Jim Prince, who has expressed his desire to see the property preserved for climbing and hiking. Local climbers, led by Paul Krause, initially proposed to buy Foster Falls themselves, with backing from the Access Fund. This led to an agreement that Prince and the interested public would petition the state to purchase Foster Falls and integrate it into the adjoining Small Wild Area.
Local climbers, including the Access Fund's Truly Bracken, have formed the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) to address the access problems at Foster Falls and other southern climbing areas. The SCC and the Access Fund have launched an all-out effort to help Prince convince Tennessee government officials that the state should acquire and preserve Foster Falls for public enjoyment. You can help by writing letters to Tennessee government officials supporting the state's purchase of Foster Falls. Write to: Gerald McKinney, Director, Tennessee State Parks, 401 Church Street, 7th floor, LNC Tower, Nashville, TN 37243. For more information on climbing at Foster Falls, call Truly Bracken at (404) 874-8391.