| Beets |
| Instead of boiling them, steam, roast, or grate beets for less mess and more flavorfor less mess and more flavor. |
Solution: Although most people boil beets, it causes too much bleeding, creating a mess and leeching out flavor. Steaming produces beets that are moist enough to use in any recipe. It also minimizes bleeding and concentrates flavor in much the same way that roasting does (although to a somewhat lesser degree).Roasted beets make an excellent side dish. Foil-wrapped roasted beets are moister, but roasting them as is brings out more flavor. Grating beets is simple and not terribly messy, so don't be intimidated by the thought of beet stains. Whatever the cooking method, you can minimize bleeding by not peeling the skin and by not slicing off the tops of the beets. Peeling after cooking is simple; the skin slips right off with a paper towel.
For Good Measure: Beets steam in thirty to forty-five minutes, depending on size; it's best to quarter very large beets in order to cook them within this time period.
MASTER RECIPE FOR STEAMED BEETS
Be careful not to let the pan run out of water during this long steaming process. To make sure you don’t forget, place marbles below the steamer basket before steaming -- they will stop jiggling when the pan is dry.
1 bunch of beets (about 2 pounds), greens removed and reserved for another use, leaving a 1-inch beet top; beets washed thoroughly
Place beets in steamer basket set in large saucepan with 1 inch of water. Bring to boil; steam over high heat until beets can easily be pierced with thin knife, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on beet size. Drain, cool slightly, and remove skins. Serve or continue with recipes that follow.
MASTER RECIPE FOR ROASTED BEETS
Roasted beets bleed very little when cut, so they can also be used in recipes. Just remember that the dish will take on a sweet and very distinct roasted flavor.
1 bunch of beets (about 2 pounds), greens removed and reserved for another use, leaving a 1-inch beet top; beets washed thoroughly
1 tablespoon olive oil (if roasting without foil)
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Wrap beets in foil or brush with olive oil and place in small roasting pan. Roast until beets can easily be pierced with thin knife or trussing needle, about 1 hour for small to medium beets. Cool slightly and remove skins; serve.
PICKLED BEETS WITH ORANGE AND ROSEMARY
Makes about 2 quarts
Use small beets, about the size of a golf ball, if available. Bigger beets should be quartered or sliced after steaming.
2 Master Recipes for Steamed Beets
1/2 cup sweet vermouth
2/3 cup red wine
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey or brown sugar
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 3-inch cinnamon stick
1 medium sprig fresh rosemary
2 1/4-inch-thick slices from 1 orange, seeds removed
Salt and ground black pepper
Place beets in medium bowl. Bring next 8 ingredients to boil; simmer to blend flavors, about 3 minutes; add salt and pepper to taste, then pour mixture over beets. Cool to room temperature, cover, then refrigerate until ready to serve. (Can be refrigerated up to 1 month.)
BEETS ROESTI
Serves 4
One teaspoon minced fresh rosemary can be added to the beet/flour mixture.
4 medium beets, peeled and coarsely grated (about 4 cups)
1/2 cup flour
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup oil
Salt and ground black pepper
1. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Toss beets with flour in medium bowl.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon each butter and oil in an 8-inch sauté pan or omelet pan. When butter stops foaming and oil is very hot, measure 1 cup of beet mixture into pan and quickly spread and press it flat with back of fork.
3. Cook over medium-high heat until bottom is well browned, about 2 minutes. Loosen carefully with spatula, put plate over pan, and invert. Slide cake back into pan; cook until remaining side is well browned, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes longer. Carefully loosen and slide onto an oven-proof platter; add salt and pepper to taste. Reserve in a warm oven; repeat 3 more times to make 4 cakes. Serve immediately.
March, 1994
Original article and recipes by Eric Wolff
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