The solution: The secret to making a good scone is to work the dough quickly and lightly, and to immediately bake it in a preheated oven. Speed is of the essence to prevent toughening of the dough; it is also important when using homemade single-acting baking powder for leavener, as this recipe does, since you want the powder to do its work in the oven, not before baking. The whole process shouldn't take more than twenty minutes, from mixing the ingredients together to pulling the finished scones out of the oven.

For good measure: Have the dough as wet as you can handle, and, when using a scone or biscuit cutter, don't wiggle it -- just place it on the dough and push straight down.

MASTER RECIPE FOR SWEET-MILK SCONES

Makes 8 or 9 scones

Work the dough quickly, don’t overmix, and put the dough rounds into the heated oven as soon as possible. The process — from mixing to pulling the finished scones out of the oven —shouldn’t take more than twenty minutes. Scones are best served warm and fresh, split open, and topped with thick homemade strawberry or raspberry jam and clotted cream (or crème fraîche, mascarpone, or whipped cream). This recipe can be doubled.

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1–2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 cup whole milk

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.

2. Sift first 4 (or 5) ingredients into large bowl, or measure into workbowl of a food processor fitted with steel blade; pulse until blended. With a pastry blender, 2 knives, or steel blade of a food processor, cut or process butter into flour mixture until mixture resembles coarse meal with a few slightly larger butter lumps.

3. If making by hand, make a well in the center and pour in milk. Working quickly, blend ingredients together with a rubber spatula into a soft, slightly wet dough. If using a food processor, pour milk though feed tube; pulse until dough just starts to gather into a rough ball (do not overprocess or scones will be tough). Turn dough onto a well-floured work surface.

4. Quickly roll dough to 1/2 inch thick. Use a lightly greased and floured 3-inch biscuit cutter to stamp dough with one decisive punch, cutting close together to generate as few scraps as possible. Dip cutter into flour as often as necessary to keep dough from sticking. Push scraps of dough together so that edges join; firmly pinch edges with fingertips to make a partial seal. Pat this remaining dough to 1/2 inch thick; continue to cut 3-inch rounds. Place dough rounds 1 1/2 inches apart on a greased baking sheet. Bake until scones are lightly brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately.

Traditional British Additions

Add 1/3 to 1/2 cup dried fruits, such as raisins or currants, or small, soft, fresh fruits, such as raspberries.

New World Additions

Add 1/3 to 1/2 cup chocolate chips, chopped crystallized ginger, or blueberries.

Savory Additions

These make an excellent accompaniment to salads or soups. Omit the sugar and stir or pulse in 1/2 cup grated aged cheddar or Cheshire cheese just before adding wet ingredients; or add 1 tablespoon dry or 2 tablespoons minced, fresh herbs with wet ingredients; or sauté one small onion, minced, in 1 tablespoon bacon fat or oil until transparent, about 5 minutes. Cool slightly and add with the wet ingredients.

CITRUS HONEY-NUT SCONES

Makes 9 or 10 scones

Follow Master Recipe for Sweet-Milk Scones, adding 1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts and 2 tablespoons minced lemon zest to the dry ingredients. If using a food processor, pulse walnuts with dry ingredients, then pulse in the minced lemon zest just before adding the butter. Substitute 2 tablespoons honey for the optional sugar; substitute 1/4 cup orange juice for 1/4 cup of the milk. Mix honey, orange juice, and milk together and proceed with recipe.

CREAM AND CURRANT SCONES

Makes 9 or 10 scones

If currants are old and dry, plump them in one-quarter cup heated sweet sherry or sweet marsala for ten minutes. Drain, reserving liquid (which can be substituted for some of the heavy cream, if desired). If the currants are wet, add them just after wet ingredients have been added. If currants have not been macerated, toss them in with the dry ingredients.

Follow Master Recipe for Sweet-Milk Scones, making sure to add the optional sugar, adding 1/3 cup currants at the appropriate time, and substituting 2 eggs and 3/4 cup heavy cream for the milk. The dough tops may be brushed with beaten egg and sprinkled with a bit of sugar.

March, 1994
Original article and recipes by Deborah Krasner

 
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