Goal: We wanted the perfect balance--pinkish-red, sweet/tart, toothsome fruit mixed with light, sweet cream.

Solution: Soak the rhubarb in water to reduce the acid, simmer in orange juice and sugar (and don't stir too much) to retain texture and color, and layer with lightly whipped, sweetened cream for ideal flavor and texture and an attractive, unusual presentation.

RHUBARB FOOL
Serves 8

2 1/4 pounds rhubarb, trimmed of ends and cut into 6-inch lengths
1/3 cup juice from 1 large orange
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
Pinch salt
2 cups cold heavy cream

1. Soak rhubarb in 1 gallon cold water for 20 minutes. Drain, pat dry with paper towels, and cut rhubarb crosswise into slices 1/2-inch thick.
2. Bring orange juice, 3/4 cup sugar, and salt to boil in medium nonreactive saucepan over medium-high heat. Add rhubarb and return to boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring only 2 or 3 times (frequent stirring causes rhubarb to become mushy), until rhubarb begins to break down and is tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer rhubarb to nonreactive bowl, cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic and refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour or up to 24.
3. Beat cream and remaining sugar in bowl of standing mixer on low speed until small bubbles form, about 45 seconds. Increase speed to medium; continue beating until beaters leave a trail, about 45 seconds longer. Increase speed to high; continue beating until cream is smooth, thick, and nearly doubled in volume and forms soft peaks, about 30 seconds.
4. To assemble fool, spoon about 1/4 cup rhubarb into each of eight 8-ounce glasses, then spoon in a layer of about 1/4 cup whipped cream. Repeat, ending with dollop of cream; serve. Can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 6 hours. (To make one large fool, double the recipe and layer rhubarb and whipped cream in a 12-cup glass bowl.)

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB FOOL
Serves 8

Clean and hull 2 pints strawberries; quarter each berry. Follow recipe for Rhubarb Fool, substituting strawberries for 1 1/4 pounds rhubarb.

BLUEBERRY-RHUBARB FOOL
WITH FRESH GINGER
Serves 8

Follow recipe for Rhubarb Fool, reducing rhubarb to 1 1/2 pounds, adding 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger to orange juice along with sugar and salt, and gently stirring 1 pint blueberries into rhubarb after it has simmered 2 minutes.