The solution: Because the ideal rice pilaf should cook up into separate, fluffy grains, we immediately decided to limit our testing to long-grain rice. Among the long-grain varieties available, we preferred basmati; if you find basmati rice hard to come by, plain long-grain white rice (not instant or converted) works fine.
While common knowledge generally holds that you use 2 cups of water to cook 1 cup of long-grain rice, we wanted to test it. As it turned out, the best rice was produced with a ratio of 1 cup rice to 1 2/3 cups water; to make the ratio easier to remember, we adjusted it to 1 1/2 cups rice to 2 1/2 cups water.
Most recipes stipulated that to produce fluffy, separate grains of rice, the rice had to be soaked, rinsed, or parboiled before being browned in a pan and then cooked in liquid. We found parboiling to be less than helpful; it produced bloated, waterlogged grains of rice. Rinsing, however, made a positive difference, especially when using basmati rice. After rinsing several times, until the water was clear enough to see through and make out the grains distinctly, the final cooked rice was more tender and had a slightly shinier, smoother appearance. Soaking, too, turned out to be worthwhile, producing tender, less starchy, seemingly longer grains of rice that made for a more refined finished product. The only problem is that to achieve this effect, soaking must take place overnight, something that calls for more forethought than many cooks may want to give a dish of rice--no matter how good. Consequently, we call for rinsing in the master recipe for our rice pilaf and leave overnight soaking up to the cook.

For good measure: Leaving the pot of cooked rice to steam for 10 to 15 minutes after coming off the heat helps to make sure the moisture is evenly distributed throughout the rice. We found that placing a clean dish towel between the pan and lid had the benefit of preventing condensation and absorbing excess water during steaming, producing dryer, fluffier rice. Two layers of paper towels will also do the job.

SIMPLE PILAF-STYLE RICE
Serves 4 as a side dish

If you like, olive oil can be substituted for the butter depending on what you are serving with the pilaf. Soaking the rice overnight in water results in more tender, separate grains. If you'd like to try it, add enough water to cover the rice by 1 inch after the rinsing process in step 1, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it stand at room temperature 8 to 24 hours; reduce the amount of water to cook the rice to 2 cups. For the most evenly cooked rice, use a wide-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.

1 1/2 cups basmati (or long-grain) rice
2 1/4 cups water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Ground black pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, minced (about 1/2 cup)

1. Place rice in medium bowl and add enough water to cover by 2 inches; using hands, gently swish grains to release excess starch. Carefully pour off water, leaving rice in bowl. Repeat four to five times, until water runs almost clear. Using a colander or fine mesh strainer, drain water from rice; place colander over bowl and set aside.
2. Bring 2 1/4 cups water to boil, covered, in small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add salt and season with pepper; cover to keep hot. Meanwhile, heat butter in large saucepan over medium heat until foam begins to subside; add onion and sauté until softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat grains with butter; cook until edges of rice grains begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir hot seasoned water into rice; return to boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until all liquid is absorbed, about 16-18 minutes. Off heat, remove lid, and place kitchen towel folded in half over saucepan; replace lid. Let stand 10 minutes; fluff rice with fork and serve.

RICE PILAF WITH CURRANTS
AND PINE NUTS

Toast 1/4 cup pine nuts in small dry skillet over medium heat until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes; set aside. Follow recipe for Simple Pilaf-Style Rice, adding 1/2 teaspoon turmeric, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and 2 medium garlic cloves, minced, to sautéed onion; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. When rice is off heat, before covering saucepan with towel, sprinkle 1/4 cup currants over rice in pan (do not mix in). When fluffing rice with fork, toss in toasted pine nuts.

INDIAN-SPICED RICE PILAF WITH
DATES AND PARSLEY

Follow recipe for Simple Pilaf-Style Rice, adding 2 medium garlic cloves, minced, 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger, 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom to sautéed onion; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. When rice is off heat, before covering saucepan with towel, add 1/4 cup chopped dates and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (do not mix in); continue with recipe.

RICE PILAF WITH VERMICELLI

If you're using soaked rice for this variation, use 3 cups of water.

Break 4 ounces vermicelli into 1-inch pieces (you should have about 1 cup); set aside. Follow recipe for Simple Pilaf-Style Rice, increasing water to 3 1/4 cups and melting only 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in saucepan over medium heat; add vermicelli and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 3 minutes. Remove to small bowl and set aside. Sauté onion in remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in now-empty saucepan; add 2 medium garlic cloves, minced, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander, and pinch allspice to sautéed onion; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. Add vermicelli along with rice; continue with recipe.

March, 2000
Original article and recipes by Anne Yamanaka

 
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