The solution: Early in the testing process it became apparent that "French vanilla," made with a custard base relying on egg yolks, far surpasses "Philadelphia-style" vanilla, made without eggs. In texture as well as flavor, the French version simply had far more of the richness and creaminess that we look for in ice cream. While as few as three yolks in a quart recipe makes an excellent ice cream, we found that six yolks made for an optimum silky texture without tasting eggy. As for cream, we liked just one part to two parts milk. Any more and the ice cream took on an undesirable "buttery" quality. Besides adding sweetness, we found sugar gives ice cream a smoother, softer, more "scoopable" end product. This is because the sugar both reduces the number and size of ice crystals and lowers the freezing temperature of the mixture so that you can beat the mixture longer, incorporating more air into the ice cream, before it freezes.

For good measure: Yolks need to be beaten very well with some of the sugar before being combined with the other ingredients. If the yolks are only lightly beaten, the color of the finished ice cream is shockingly yellow.

Be sure to seal your ice cream tightly when storing in the freezer. Plastic wrap is preferable to aluminum foil. The flavor and texture of ice cream is so delicate that any contact with air causes quick deterioration.

MASTER RECIPE FOR VANILLA ICE CREAM

Makes 1 quart

If necessary, two teaspoons of vanilla extract may be substituted for the vanilla bean. To maximize the extract’s potency, stir it into the chilled custard just before churning.

2 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
4-inch piece of vanilla bean, slit lengthwise and seeds removed (see illustration), pod reserved
6 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream

1. Bring milk, 1/4 cup sugar, and vanilla seeds and pod to 175 degrees in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar and break up vanilla seeds.
2. Meanwhile, beat remaining sugar with yolks until mixture turns pale yellow and thickens so that it falls in ribbons, about 2 minutes with an electric mixer or 4 minutes with a whisk.
3. Remove 1/2 cup hot milk from pan and slowly whisk it into beaten yolks. Then gradually whisk yolk mixture into saucepan and, stirring constantly, heat this mixture over medium-low heat to 180 degrees, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat; strain custard into a plastic or nonreactive metal bowl and stir in cream. Retrieve vanilla pods from strainer and add them to the mixture. Place bowl in a larger bowl of ice water to bring custard to room temperature.
4. Seal container and refrigerate until custard is no more than 40 degrees, 4 to 8 hours.
(This is unnecessary with self-contained electric model). Remove vanilla pods (or add extract) and pour custard into an ice cream machine. Churn until frozen.

COFFEE ICE CREAM

Makes 1 quart

Instant espresso powder adds a strong jolt of coffee flavor without adding liquid, which would cause iciness.

Follow the Master Recipe, adding 3 tablespoons instant espresso powder (in place of vanilla bean) to hot milk mixture in step 1; stir until dissolved. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract as directed in step 4.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

Makes 1 quart

Cocoa adds a rich flavor without too much fat. For a truffle-like ice cream, add two ounces of chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate to the finished, but still hot, cocoa custard and stir constantly until chocolate melts.

Follow the Master Recipe, omitting vanilla bean and adding 2 tablespoons sugar to the original 1/4 cup in step 1. When the egg mixture has reached the ribbon stage in step 2, beat in 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder until mixture is smooth. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract as directed in step 4.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

Makes 1 quart

Other soft fruits can also be turned into ice cream using this technique. Good candidates include peaches, nectarines, and plums (all peeled and sliced), and raspberries and blackberries (seeds may be strained from both after the fruit has macerated).

Follow the Master Recipe omitting vanilla bean in step 1. While custard is chilling, sprinkle 1 pint stemmed and halved strawberries with 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract; crush lightly with a potato masher and let macerate for 1 hour. Stir berries into cold custard and refrigerate mixture again (if necessary) until temperature falls to 40 degrees.

July, 1993
Original article and recipes by Jack Bishop

 
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