The solution: Our favorite technique for precooking the potatoes turned out to be baking. Not only does it not involve cooking with water, as does boiling or steaming, but baking potatoes also sheds moisture. In effect, baked potatoes need far less flour to form a coherent dough. Also, gnocchi made with baked potatoes have a stronger potato flavor. Once the potatoes are baked and peeled, they must be mashed. It quickly became clear that lumps had to be avoided at all costs because they caused the gnocchi to come apart when they were cooked. We found that a $9 ricer was the best tool for mashing. This device gets its name from the tiny, rice-shaped pieces it produces. Another enemy of light gnocchi is kneading. So just work the dough by hand until it just comes together. While we were focused on reducing the amount of flour used, we found it can be possible to add too little flour. The potatoes need enough flour to make a dough that is not sticky and that will roll easily. If the dough comes apart, you must add more flour. Since the moisture level of each potato varies according to the variety and how long it has been out of the ground, it is impossible to write a recipe giving an exact ration of potatoes to flour. We found that two pounds of potatoes could require as little as one-and-one-quarter cups of flour or as much as one-and-one-half cups. As a general rule, we worked one-and-one-quarter cups of flour into the riced potatoes. The dough seemed to be just barely bound, so we added another two tablespoons as a kind of insurance policy.

MASTER RECIPE FOR POTATO GNOCCHI

Makes about 100 gnocchi

To insure that gnocchi are the right texture, bring a small saucepan of water to simmer while mixing the dough. Roll a small piece of the dough into the rope shape. Cut off a small piece or two from the rope, shape them into gnocchi, then drop them into the simmering water. If the gnocchi are too mushy, put the dough rope back into the potato mixture and add in another tablespoon or two of flour. It’s better to take the time to test one or two gnocchi than to ruin the whole batch. Also, be careful not to overwork or overknead the dough; you simply want to incorporate the flour into the potatoes. Avoid cooking the gnocchi at a rolling boil since violently churning water makes it difficult to determine when the gnocchi are floating. Even gently boiling gnocchi may bob temporarily to the surface, but don’t lift them out until they float.

2 pounds russet or baking potatoes, washed
1 1/4 cups flour, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon salt, plus more for cooking liquid

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake potatoes until a metal skewer slides easily through them, 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on size.

2. Hold potato with a pot holder or kitchen towel and peel it with a vegetable peeler or paring knife; rice peeled potato into a large bowl. Peel and rice remaining potatoes. Cool until potatoes are no longer hot, about 15 minutes.

3. Sprinkle 1 1/4 cups flour and 1 teaspoon salt over warm potatoes. Using your hands, work mixture into a soft, smooth dough. If dough is sticky (which is often the case), add more flour as needed, up to 1 1/2 cups total.

4. Roll about one-quarter of dough into a long 3/4-inch-thick rope. If rope won’t hold together, return it to bowl with remaining dough and work in more flour as needed. Repeat until all dough is rolled.

5. Cut rope of dough into 3/4-inch lengths. Holding butter paddle or fork in one hand, press each piece of cut dough against ridged surface with index finger to make an indentation in center. Roll dough down and off ridges and allow it to drop to work surface. (Gnocchi can be placed in a single layer on a baking sheet and refrigerated for several hours. Or, baking sheet can be placed in freezer for about 1 hour. Partially frozen gnocchi can be transferred to plastic bag or container, sealed, and frozen for up to 1 month.)

6. Bring 4 quarts of water to low boil in large pot. Add 2 teaspoons salt or to taste. Add about one-third of the gnocchi and cook until they float, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes (about 3 minutes for frozen gnocchi). Retrieve gnocchi with slotted spoon and transfer to warm, shallow serving bowl or platter. Repeat cooking process with remaining gnocchi, following specific topping and tossing instructions in recipes below.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER, SAGE, AND PARMESAN CHEESE

Serves 8 as a first course or 4 to 6 as a main course

Although sage is the classic herb choice in this preparation, other fresh herbs such as oregano, thyme, chives, or marjoram can be substituted.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
12 fresh sage leaves, cut into thin strips
1 Master Recipe for Potato Gnocchi
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for passing

1. Melt butter in small skillet. When butter foams, add sage. Remove pan from heat and set aside.

2. Cook gnocchi according to Master Recipe and transfer to warm platter. Top each batch with a portion of herbed butter and cheese. When last batch has been sauced, gently toss gnocchi and serve immediately with more cheese passed separately.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH TOMATO-MINT SAUCE

Serves 8 as a first course or 4 to 6 as a main course

Two cups of any smooth tomato sauce can be used with a full recipe of gnocchi. An equal amount of ragù, the slow-simmering meat sauce that hails from Bologna, is also appropriate.

3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 small onion, chopped
1/2 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 small celery rib, chopped
1 can (14.5 ounces) crushed tomatoes
8 fresh mint or basil leaves
Salt
1 Master Recipe for Potato Gnocchi
Grated Parmesan cheese for passing

1. Heat oil in a medium saucepan. Add onion, carrot, and celery; cook over medium heat until vegetables soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and mint. Simmer until sauce thickens and vegetables soften completely, about 30 minutes. Puree sauce in food processor or blender. Adjust seasonings, adding salt if necessary, and keep sauce warm.

2. Cook gnocchi according to Master Recipe and transfer to warm serving platter. Gently toss with tomato sauce and serve immediately with cheese passed separately.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH PESTO

Serves 8 as a first course or 4 to 6 as a main course

This recipe makes a scant cup of pesto. Feel free to use an equal amount of any favorite type of pesto as sauce for a full recipe of gnocchi.

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves
2 medium garlic cloves
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt
1 Master Recipe for Potato Gnocchi

1. Place basil, garlic, and pine nuts in workbowl of food processor. Process, scraping down sides as needed, until minced. With motor still running, slowly pour oil through feed tube and process until smooth. Scrape pesto into bowl. Stir in cheese and salt to taste.

2. Cook gnocchi according to Master Recipe and transfer to warm platter. Gently toss gnocchi with pesto and serve immediately.

POTATO GNOCHHI GRATANÈED WITH FONTINA CHEESE

Serves 8 as a first course or 4 to 6 as a main course

One cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese can be substituted for the fontina cheese in this recipe.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Master Recipe for Potato Gnocchi
4 ounces fontina cheese, shredded

1. Adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler. Smear 2 tablespoons butter on a gratin dish large enough to hold gnocchi in a single layer. Melt remaining butter in small skillet and set aside.

2. Cook gnocchi according to Master Recipe and transfer to buttered dish. When last batch has been cooked, toss gnocchi with melted butter and sprinkle evenly with cheese.

3. Broil gnocchi until cheese melts and just begins to brown, no more than 3 or 4 minutes. Serve immediately.

March, 1995
Original article and recipes by Jack Bishop

 
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