Hi Avrim:

So sorry this took me so long, and I hope you haven't already left---I recall 
you saying that you guys were leaving on the 1st, which I hope is the case.  
Anyway, hope that this finds you before you depart.

First, if you didn't buy a "Plan du Paris" ("map of Paris, in English) on 
your first trip, I highly recommend it. All Parisians use it, it costs about 
$10-15 and you'll use if for all your other trips to Paris.  It's a must for 
getting around the town.  Every street in the city; all the 
"arrondissements": map of the subway system, etc.

OK, here goes.  It's been a while, and I don't have my "Plan" with me here in 
Mexico, so I'm working from memory.  Hope that it's helpful.  Once you've 
bought your "Plan," you can reference my suggestions and get yourself 
oriented, link the walks together, etc.

For an exotic (and cool) experience, go to "the Mosque" ("La Mosquee") in 
French.  It's in the southeastern part of the city (15th arrondissement, or 
5th?).  Go the cafe in the mosque and have tea.  It's just very cool.
La Rue Moufftard (sp?).  It starts on the top of the hill where the Pantheon 
is (across the street from the Luxembourg Gardens).  It's a neat little 
street that winds down the other side of the hill.  Go before noon when the 
market fills the street---you can buy a few things and picnic in the 
Luxembourg Garden.
Speaking of the Luxembourg Gardens, it's a neat place.  I'd take a walk 
through---check out all of the "espaille'd" fruit trees----truly a work of 
art.
Walk to the other side of the Garden (opposite from the Pantheon side) and 
find the "St. Sulpice" church.  Very cool neighborhood (St. Germain des Pres 
neighborhood).  The church is on a square; there's a lot of very nice cafes 
and restaurants, and it's the site of the famous "Left Bank" fashion center.
While you're over there, wander to the Montparnasse neighborhood and stop in 
at the "Rosebud" bar.  Hemmingway and the gang drank there.  It's small, the 
waiters where little white coats and they play real vinyl records of the best 
jazz anywhere.  Best of all, it's not pretentious.  It's hip.
Also there is a cemetery where many famous folks are buried (including Serge 
Gainsbourg)----cemeteries are of course a big deal in Paris, the most notable 
being the Pere LaChaise Cemetery, where Jim Morrison is buried. They're 
Interesting enough, but I don't know if I'd go out of my way....
In the Latin Quarter (5th arrond), check out "L'Ecluse," right on the river 
at the Quai les Grands Augustins, just off Boulevard St. Michel.  Little wine 
bar with tasty things to nibble on.  Great place to take a breather in the 
late afternoon (somewhat) in style.
The Picasso museum in the &Marais8 neighborhood is an absolute must.  And 
while you,re there be sure to cruise the neighborhood.  Very gentrified these 
days (and it,s the gay neighborhood), but been renovated into a lot of very 
impressive art galleries and fashion houses---very neat.
While there (in the same neighborhood) go to the &Place des Vosges.8  Unreal 
big old square from way back when---great to look at and there,s shops and 
cafes.
The &Institute du Monde Arab8 is on the Mitterand,s &seven great projects.8  
Architechturally magnificent and the exhibits inside are modest and very 
impressive.
Rue de la Roquette is now extremely hip---on the east side of the Bastille 
behind the &new opera8 (if you get a chance go an opera there---very populist 
experience and fun.  Roquette is where the clubs and the musique are.  
General hip-dome (and if you,re inclined to do some real people-watching, go 
to Boulevard St. Germain and sit outside at Les Deux Magots or Caf, Fleure 
and watch away).
Find on your map the church St. Eustache.  Walk around east of it for some 
very cool neighborhood viewing*used to be big wholesale butchers and such 
(extension of Les Halles, which is now a big shopping mall but used to be 
Paris, outdoor market).  From there walk to &Place des Victoires, or Place 
des Notre Dame des Victoires (I can,t remember).  And look for Gallerie 
Vivienne, too---Belle Epoque little food a shopping corrider*very neat.
And finally, while your over there, go to the Palais Royale (by the Louvre), 
which is where Louis XIV grew up as a boy---fantastic courtyard, 
controversial artwork (black and white striped columns);  walk to the 
opposite end, exit the courtyard out the back and continue walking in the 
neighborhood.

I,ll leave the museums, etc. to you.  Sorry to quick and dirty.  Have a great 
time.  See you soon.

Best,
Jeff