Wednesday, May 9, 2001
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Mania for Anything Aged and Moldy

1. Main Course: In New York, It's Cheese-Cart Gridlock
2. Recipe of the Week: Mexican-Flavored Chicken Thighs
3. Wine List: The Day California Shook the World
4. Multimedia: Cooking With the Times -- The Mayo Clinic
5. New York City Restaurants: A Glittery Circus With Many
Rings
6. Reader Discussion: Menu Suggestions for a New Mom

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1. Main Course: In New York, It's Cheese-Cart Gridlock
======================================================

The cheese-centric restaurant Artisanal is only the latest,
and most over the top, example of New York's sudden mania
for anything aged and moldy.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09CHEE.html?0509wd

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Critic's Notebook: Funky, Runny, Ripe? Waiter, Bring It On

No cheese is too obscure for Times critic William Grimes
(see his review of Le Cirque, below), who counts himself
among a swelling population of cheese snobs.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09NOTE.html?0509wd

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Paan: To Refresh a Palate, or a Sultan's Kiss

The experience of eating paan, a tantalizing mix of Indian
flavors and textures, is as seductive as a stolen kiss, as
relaxing as an after-dinner cigar.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09PAAN.html?0509wd


2. Recipe of the Week: Mexican-Flavored Chicken Thighs
======================================================

Chicken thighs have a huge advantage over lean breasts. They
are juicy and flavorful, and made even more so by Mark
Bittman's Mexican-inspired treatment, a quick liquid rub for
the thighs, which packs plenty of punch, even if you use
just a little cayenne.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09MINI.html?0509wd

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Tagines: A Secret Kept Under a Terra Cotta Lid

If you can get your hands on a tagine, the Moroccan pot with
a hoop skirt of a lid, try one of these luscious dishes,
including one for striped bass and another for chicken with
olives and preserved lemons.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09TAGI.html?0509wd


3. Wine List: The Day California Shook the World
================================================

Frank J. Prial remembers the 1976 wine tasting in Paris that
American winemakers and cultural historians have come to
characterize as the defining moment in the evolution of fine
wine in this country.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09WINE.html?0509wd

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Tastings: Protean South African Blend

Judging strictly by flavor and price, says Eric Asimov,
South African pinotages are among the best red wine values
out there.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09TAST.html?0509wd

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Wine picks: Leslie Sbrocco's Cellar Suggestions

Washington State is becoming known for its red-hot reds --
from cabernets to merlots. Check these out:

1998 Gordon Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon
$22 - Juicy, jammy fruit, spice, chocolate and a meaty
component are well framed by firm tannins -- this is one for
the cellar.
Four stars
http://www.winetoday.com/search97cgi/s97_cgi?Action=FilterSearch&SearchPage=re
sult_end.html&collection=WineTodayReviewsEnd&Filter=result_end_filter.hts&Resu
ltTemplate=result_end.hts&querytext=&wineid=20239&SUBMIT.x=28&SUBMIT.y=9

1998 Seven Hills Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
$28 - Ripe and concentrated yet supple. Interesting for its
spice components that back up rich, deep, dark, fruit
flavors of black cherry, blackberry and black currant.
Four stars
http://www.winetoday.com/search97cgi/s97_cgi?Action=FilterSearch&SearchPage=re
sult_end.html&collection=WineTodayReviewsEnd&Filter=result_end_filter.hts&Resu
ltTemplate=result_end.hts&querytext=&wineid=19737&SUBMIT.x=28&SUBMIT.y=9

1999 Andrew Will Klipsun Merlot
$40 - For those who like wild and daring flavors in their
merlots.
Four stars
http://www.winetoday.com/search97cgi/s97_cgi?Action=FilterSearch&SearchPage=re
sult_end.html&collection=WineTodayReviewsEnd&Filter=result_end_filter.hts&Resu
ltTemplate=result_end.hts&querytext=&wineid=20095&SUBMIT.x=28&SUBMIT.y=9


4. Multimedia: Cooking With the Times -- The Mayo Clinic
========================================================

Learn classical French technique through recipes and video
instruction. This month's class: The Mayo Clinic. Despite
what you might think, homemade mayonnaise is a true sauce, a
culinary treasure.
http://www.nytimes.com/cooking?0509wd


5. NYC Restaurants: A Glittery Circus With Many Rings
=====================================================

Behold Le Cirque 2000, a giddy swirl of wealth and
privilege, of gilt without guilt, a glittering social
pageant that cries out for a Balzac or a Wharton. As pure
spectacle, there is nothing in New York like it. (Three
stars.)
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09REST.html?0509wd

Take a Video Tour of Le Cirque
http://www.nytimes.com/library/dining/050901lecirque-video.ram?0509wd

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To Go: Pizza's Turkish Twin

The real specialties at Sultan II in the Flatiron District
are the fresh-baked breads, savory pies and lahmacuns, or
Turkish pizzas.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/09/living/09TOGO.html?0509wd

Find a Restaurant
http://nytoday.com/RestaurantAdvanced.html?0509wd

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Bar of the Week: Filter 14

The spot formerly known as Mother may not be chic (or well
ventilated), but it's not a bad spot for some low-key
dancing.
http://nytoday.com/search/bin/bar?st=bar&bid=988980017153?0509wd

Find a Bar
http://www.nytoday.com/search/bin/bar?st=cat_nei&cat=NYToday%20Pick&nei=Manhat
tan?0509wd



6. Readers' Opinions: Menu Suggestions for a New Mom
====================================================

From simple recipes for a new mother to what wines might be
best for your health, readers share their insights and
answer fellow readers' questions.

Q. I have never been much of a cook, but things have been
pretty pitiful since my baby arrived 5 months ago. I have
very limited time for food preparation, and the stew-type
standbys aren't as appetizing as it gets warmer. I am going
for healthy, balanced meals that don't require too much
hands-on prep time. -- sozobe

Read the responses to this question and many others in:
Food and Wine Tips From Readers
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/08/living/08KNOW.html?0509wd


I hope you've enjoyed this email. Bon appetit!

Dan Saltzstein
Producer, Dining
New York Times Digital
daniel@nytimes.com



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