Wine & Dine from NYTimes.com
Wednesday, October 24, 2001
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A Passport to Home

1. Main Course: In Cookbooks, a Passport Home, Wherever That May Be
2. Recipe of the Week: Combining Fire and Rice, and a Few Choice Flavors
3. Wine List: Trivial Pursuit That Goes to Your Head
4. NYC Restaurants: A Supercool Setting, but a Warm Welcome
5. Knowledge Sharing: Green Tomatoes, Beyond Fried


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1. Main Course: In Cookbooks, a Passport Home, Wherever
That May Be
===================================================

A number of new cookbooks, filled with recipes that seem
at once familiar and new, give you all you need to satisfy
a yearning to feed others. Amanda Hesser discusses some of
the best, and includes selected recipes.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24BOOK.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IN8041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx

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On Menus Everywhere, a Big Slice of Patriotism

The entire city has been swept away by a tide of patriotic
sentiment, writes William Grimes, and those engaged with
food are no exception.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24NOTE.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IN0041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx


2. Recipe of the Week: Combining Fire and Rice, and a Few
Choice Flavors
===================================================

Pilaf is far easier to make than risotto, it is equally
delicious, and it is capable of producing scores of spin-
offs. Mark Bittman provides recipes for basic pilaf, plus
a set of wonderful variations.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24MINI.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IMz041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx

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Gelee: So Chic, So French, So Slippery

This recipe for crab salad with Apple gelee mixes Jell-O's
very sophisticated Gallic sister with the tanginess of
apples and the softness of crab.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/242GREX.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IN1041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx


3. Wine List: Trivial Pursuit That Goes to Your Head
===================================================

The Shafer Line on Wine newsletter, from Shafer Vineyards
in the Napa Valley, offers no harvest reports, no tales of
the winery cat, not even a single obvious plug for Shafer
wines. And that, says Frank J. Prial, is a good thing.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24WINE.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IMx041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx

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Wine picks: Leslie Sbrocco's Cellar Suggestions

The adage "what's old is new again" certainly holds true
for wine as grape varieties synonymous with Old World
wines are thriving in the New World. Pinot noir, the grape
responsible for red Burgundy, is causing a buzz in New
Zealand; syrah, a star in France's Northern Rhone region,
is rising to new heights in Chile; and barbera, a staple
of Italy's Piedmont region, has found a home in
California's Gold Country.

1999 Lynskeys Wairau Peaks, Pinot Noir
Marlborough, New Zealand
$33 -- Can the promise of pinot noir be realized in New
Zealand? The quality has been unpredictable over the past
few years, but this bottling shows the potential of the
grape in cool-climate Marlborough. The ripe, black cherry
fruit is reminiscent of an Oregon pinot, the velvety
texture is almost Californian in nature, and it sports
just enough earthiness to think of Burgundy. All these
elements, however, blend seamlessly in this unique wine.

1999 Caliterra, "Arboleda" Syrah
Colchagua Valley, Chile
$20 -- Syrah from the Northern Rhone region of France is
known for its rustic, intense nature while syrah from
Chile is just beginning to develop its own personality. If
you like Rhone wines, Caliterra's new label, Arboleda, is
one to seek out. It's powerful and rather opulent with a
telltale smoky, blackberry character, but also has zesty
acidity, which wakes up the palate.

1999 Boeger Winery, Barbera
El Dorado, California
$15-- Barbera from Italy's Piedmont region is juicy, fresh
and rather tart. In this version Boeger has managed to
capture the quality of the grape variety while injecting a
little California sunshine. Think plump raspberries and
bing cherries with a dash of licorice.


4. NYC Restaurants: A Supercool Setting, but a Warm
Welcome
===================================================

Somewhere along the line, Man Ray decided that a
restaurant does not have to sneer to be stylish. William
Grimes reviews the restaurant, which he says takes its
food seriously -- perhaps even too seriously.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24REST.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IMv041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx

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$25 and Under: A Traditional Cook-It-Yourself Korean Feast

The New York Kom Tang Kalbi House recalls a time not long
ago when Korean restaurants were cloistered in several
blocks of Midtown. Eric Asimov prefers the way Kom Tang
serves their tabletop grill, with braziers filled with
natural wood charcoal.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/24/dining/24UNDE.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IMu041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx

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Bar of the Week: Glass

Mirroring the Chelsea chic epitomized by the area's
gallery scene, Glass combines sleek design with the one
element missing from the nearby installations: alcohol.
http://www.nytoday.com/search/bin/bar?st=bar&bid=1002819141518

Find a Restaurant
http://nytoday.com/RestaurantAdvanced.html

Find a Bar
http://nytoday.com/search/bin/bar?st=cat_nei&cat=NYToday%20Pick&nei=Manhattan&sort=ENAME


5. Knowledge Sharing: Green Tomatoes, Beyond Fried
===================================================

Q. Have you any favorite recipes or ideas for using a
plethora of not yet ripened fruit of the gods? Please
enlighten me. -- ceilityme1

From recipes for green tomatoes to the perils behind
making homemade wine, readers share their insights and
answer fellow readers' questions.
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/22/dining/23KNOW.html?rd=hcmcp?p=041IMt041IMH44iiz012000mN97rN9Rx


I hope you've enjoyed this e-mail. Bon appetit!

Dan Saltzstein
Producer, Dining
New York Times Digital
daniel@nytimes.com



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