16-299: Elegoo Tumbller balancing robot assembly.
Other unboxing and assembly videos:
Company instruction video: This is for an older version of
the robot than what we have (V1.0 vs. V1.1). However, I enjoyed the sound
track.
Unboxing
Assembly time lapse
Another assembly video
Unboxing in Japanese
Unboxing in Spanish
Unboxing in Spanish 2
Unboxing in Spanish 3
Unboxing in German?
Unboxing in Australian
Assembly in Italian?
Atkeson's Elegoo Tumbller balancing robot assembly.
This information is intended to augment the assembly tutorial/manual that
comes with the robot.
Unboxing.
The battery, old controller board, MPU6050 IMU, and ultrasound device
have been removed from the box. Get a charged battery and new controller
board from the TA.
The battery has been charged, but
you should charge the battery again just to make sure it is charged.
Keep the parts in the little plastic bags until you need that part.
Especially the screws. Only take what you need for the current step
from the bags, or you will have a hard time figuring out which screw
is which.
Get your battery charging first thing.
A USB cable is included.
The charging port.
I don't know if the switch should be on or off while charging.
I put it to off.
The light is on or flashing (green) while charging, and goes off when fully charged.
A red light means the battery needs to be charged.
Mount the motors.
It doesn't seem to matter which side of the blue plate is up.
Only use 4 screws (top and bottom) for each motor.
Put the hubs on.
There are reports on the web of these hubs coming loose, and when
the control system starts to oscillate this is where it happens, so adding
(blue) loctite or the equivalent to the lock screws and even the axle
may be a good idea in this part of the assembly.
The shaft has a flat. Align one screw to the flat, and screw
that screw in first, so the coupling aligns with the flat.
Put the tires on.
The screws are also M4x6 from bag 3.
Put the stand on.
Install the motor wires
In this photo the connector is partially inserted. Note that the
ridges on the connector on the wires matches the indentation on
the motor connector, and these ridges should be visible to you.
In this photo the connector is fully inserted.
Note that the motor wires are threaded through the nearest slot
in the blue metal base plate.
Get a new controller board from the TA
The processor and red power electronics board are already installed.
Mount the controller board.
Screw four short brass standoffs to the blue metal base plate (make
sure the holes you use match the holes in the controller board).
Move the wires out of the way.
Note that the rows of pins on the controller board face the back of the robot.
Connect the motors to the controller board.
The connectors are "keyed" the same way as the motor connectors, with the
ridges on the motor cable connector visible.
I try to push the extra wire under the controller board to keep it out of
the way. The screwdriver is useful for this.
Here the extra wires are nicely tucked under the controller board.
Mount the standoffs for the top plates
This photo has an older version of the controller board.
I forgot to photograph the same picture with the new controller board.
Whoops.
Mount the battery on its plate.
Mount the battery plate on the robot.
The battery goes on top of the plate, with the wire on the side with
the battery connector (see next photo). Make sure the battery is turned off.
Here the battery plug is partially inserted in the POWER_IN connector
on the controller board. Note the ridges on the connector which indicate
how it should be inserted (also note the colors of the wires, which are
another clue). Fully insert the cable into the connector.
Note the artistic wrapping of the battery cable around
the standoff, to avoid loose wires flapping around when the robot moves.
Lock down the battery plate by screwing in the mid-size standoffs.
You can now get some gratification by turning the battery on and seeing
the processor and battery lights come on. That is enough gratification
for now. Turn the battery off.
Mount the top plate.
Test the USB cable.
Plug a USB cable into your laptop and the processor board.
The processor should light up, as well as the battery lights.
Very gratifying.
The Arduino USB connectors are fragile, and can easily be broken off the board. Please be gentle inserting and removing the USB cable. If you want to be really safe, never unplug the USB cable at the Arduino
and use a second USB cable to charge the battery.
Now plug a USB cable into the battery and make sure the charging
light turns on.
Also very gratifying.
Strain relief the USB cable.
Unplug the USB cable and
wrap the USB cable around a standoff and secure it with a wire tie.
The USB connector on the processor board can easily be ripped off,
which is a fatal injury, so let's avoid that. The USB cable needs to
be able to reach both the processor board and the battery connectors.
Training wheels
I add "training poles" when I am debugging a new balancing controller.
The training poles are chopsticks from a local Chinese restaurant (or the
NSH Atrium).
I attach wire ties LOOSELY and then thread a chopstick on the INSIDE
of the motor support.
Ignore the hair on the wheel axle, this is actually a "used"
robot in the photo.
Then tighten and cut off the wire ties. I position the chopsticks so
that the plastic stand piece is just off the ground, since that plastic
piece often comes loose or breaks.
Check your work.
Extra parts.
Put them in a bag and give them to the TA.