Climbing policy at Joshua Tree is still somewhat in limbo while the Backcountry Management Plan is developed. The previous no-bolting-in-wilderness directive stands pending issuance of national regulations, or the completion of the BMP, according to Superintendent Ernie Quintana. Special Programs Ranger Tom Gavin said that he will recommend that the BMP allow replacement of old bolts and limited new bolting in Joshua Tree wilderness, at least on a trial basis.
Also at issue are possible restrictions on climbing (and other uses) in certain "zones." The BMP proposes zoning to guarantee that user group size will be smaller, and "social encounters" less frequent, the farther a Joshua Tree visitor gets from roads and campgrounds. In "sensitive resource zones," including a large portion of the Wonderland of Rocks, overnight camping could be prohibited to protect Bighorn sheep.
The local climbers group Friends of Joshua Tree, headed by the indefatigable Cyndie Bransford, is representing climbers' interests during the preparation of the BMP. Longtime Joshua Tree activist Randy Vogel also is involved on behalf of the Access Fund.
Last September, FOJT staged a demonstration of bolting techniques to help Joshua Tree officials better understand the activity. Gavin called this demonstration "extremely helpful." This was the first time most park officials had directly observed the placement, removal and using fixed anchors, and all agreed that the resource impacts were minimal and could be effectively mitigated.
Most recently, FOJT and other local climbers have questioned the methodology and findings of the controversial climbers survey conducted at Joshua Tree in 1993-94. Both the survey scientists and the Park Service have balked at revealing what effect this survey will have on climbing policy. The Access Fund commissioned an independent "peer review" of this survey, which found several design flaws and suggests that the survey is not a sound basis for Park Service policy.