The final draft of the controversial Climbing Management Plan for Devils Tower National Monument has not yet been approved. This draft plan strives to balance Native American religious beliefs and activities with climbing opportunities, through a precedent-setting "voluntary climbing closure" each June. This closure could become mandatory in the future if there is not "satisfactory compliance."
The Preferred Alternative of the draft plan also would prohibit new bolts on the Tower, but existing bolts could be replaced under a permit system. In December, Chief Ranger Jim Schlinkmann said the bolting policy is still being worked out.
Devils Tower received over 200 written comments on the draft climbing plan, perhaps 75% from climbers. The Access Fund, Friends of Devils Tower, and other climber organizations urged the monument not to impose a mandatory climbing closure unless it would apply to all visitors equally. The Access Fund believes that, while climbers are in general sympathetic to Native American rights and issues, the First Amendment to the Constitution protects the right of access to a public resource such as Devils Tower against the various concerns and beliefs of religious groups. Therefore, while the Access Fund recommends that climbers choose to climb at the Tower in a month other than June, as a "gesture of respect" for Native American beliefs, it also has pledged to fight any effort to impose a mandatory climbing closure at Devils Tower. Climbers planning to visit Devils Tower this summer should call the monument (307.467.5283) for an update on its climbing policy.
Safe Harbor, PA
Despite a purchase agreement proposed last year, Safe Harbor, near Lancaster, Pennsylvania, remains closed to climbing and all other public use. Friends of the Atglen-Susquehanna Trail (FAST) will buy this railway corridor from Conrail, if the Public Utilities Commission finds that the old bridges in this corridor are safe for public use, and if $1.5 to $2 million can be raised for acquisition and improvements. The PUC is currently holding public hearings on the bridge issue. Climbers should not resume climbing at Safe Harbor until the area is formally reopened, either through lease (perhaps this year) or purchase (not likely to be finalized until 1996). Donations to help with this worthy project can be made to FAST. For more information, contact Regional Coordinator Bob Perna at 610.696.8666.
Wichita Mountains, OK
On December 12 the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge issued its Environmental Assessment for "secondary uses" of the refuge. Earlier drafts of the EA proposed to ban climbing entirely. While the latest draft would allow some climbing, it recommends severe restrictions which would apply only to climbers.
The US Fish & Wildife Service is conducting a compatibility review of secondary uses of national wildlife refuges. This review will evaluate whether climbing is consistent with the primary purpose of each refuge. Last fall, the local climbers group Wichita Mountains Access Association (WMAA) obtained congressional support for allowing climbing in wildife refuges, through Senator Don Nickles (R - OK).
Marion Hutchison, co-director of WMAA, said, "The EA shows that the Fish & Wildlife Service was trying to produce a politically correct document that gets congressional pressure off its back, instead of a meaningful analysis of recreational uses and how to manage them best."
Of 23 secondary uses of the Wichita Mountains, only eight are analyzed under the EA, and of these, the only "incompatible" activity is climbing. The EA proposes (1) to allow climbing only in the Mt. Scott and Charon Gardens Wilderness areas; (2) to prohibit climbing in the Narrows, the most popular climbing area in the refuge featuring the longest routes in the state; (3) to require climbers to buy a use permit of $8-$10 per day, with a limit of fifty permits available daily; (4) to prohibit the use of all fixed anchors, and to remove those anchors presently in place.
However, by the end of February, the WMAA's relentless pressure on the Fish and Wildlife Service to conduct a proper compatibility review rather than a sham exercise justifying a pre-determined policy position had paid off.
Recent meetings between WMAA and FWS officials seem to indicate a new willingness on the part of the agency to work cooperatively with climbers. Former refuge manager Steve Smith who recommended that climbing be banned, is being replaced by Sam Wallstein, USFWS Employee of the Year. Wallstein is known for his skills dealing with interest groups. Additional meetings are now scheduled, and it appears likely that a reasonable climbing management plan will result. Climbers' input to this review process is critical and public comment can be received until April 11, 1995. Contact Marion Hutchison at 405.360.2525 to get involved.
Sunset Rock, Lookout Mountain, TN
Over 75 climbers braved cold rain last October to complete the first phase of the Sunset Rock Trail Rehabilitation Project, a joint project of the National Park Service, the Southeast Climbers Coalition (SEC), the Access Fund, and the American Mountain Foundation. Volunteers have put in over 1000 hours of labor so far. Other phases of the project include moving tons of rock and soil, stemming erosion by building stairs made of native stone, and re-seeding of native vegetation in denuded areas. The next date for trail work is June 3, National Trails Day.
The approach to Sunset Rock requires parking in and walking through a residential neighborhood with no road shoulder or sidewalks. Over the past fifteen years, local residents have pressed the Park Service to close the area to climbing, to reduce the traffic problem. The SEC, working with the Access Fund, has proposed that the Park Service lease a parcel of land connecting the neighborhood to the trailhead from its owner, the Chattanooga Nature Center, and construct a parking area there. According to the Access Fund's Truly Bracken, building a parking area to facilitate public access to Sunset Rock is "the key piece of the puzzle." The Access Fund will help raise funds for construction and improvements to the parking area and trailhead if this property can be used for this purpose.
Sunset Rock is located in Chickamauga-Chattanooga National Historic Military Park, which, like many other national parks, is developing a climbing management plan. The Park Service has held a series of public meetings to discuss options. Local SEC activist Brad McLeod described these as "positive exchanges." The draft climbing plan will be available for public comment this spring. To get involved, call Brad McLeod at 404.385.1849.
Crest/Singing Hills, CA
At present climbers should not visit this boulder-strewn hilltop while the Access Fund and the Crag Junkies Climbing Club negotiate with the landowner. The Access Fund's Randy Vogel has informed the owner about liability protection under state law, and discussed the possible lease or donation of the property to a group such as the Access Fund. For more information, contact Randy Vogel at 714.753.2854.