Thanks for the work you're doing, and you can count on me for continued support.
But I get the feeling you support the idea that bolting is okay and that sport routes are "necessary." I say: Ban new bolts and sport routes. Let those who need to hang dog do it at the gym. Sure I've done sport routes, but whoever said, "If it won't protect naturally and you can't free solo it, maybe you weren't meant to climb it" had a good point.
If we are to be effectual stewards of the rock, how can we allow bolting (except necessary replacement) to continue?
Max Davenport
Portland, OR
Dear Max,
Thanks for your interest and support! Your letter illustrates just how varied climbers' opinions are on the bolting issue. Others have written to say that bolting is a "fundamental right" and should be allowed anywhere there is potential for climbing.
The Access Fund's position on bolting strikes a balance between "no more" and "unlimited," a position we believe fairly represents the interests of all climbers. The reality is, most climbing areas and most types of climbing require at least some use of bolts or other fixed anchors (pitons, slings, chocks). Fixed anchors are one type of environmental impact associated with climbing, and are considered by most climbers--and land managers--to be less problematic than impacts such as erosion, chalk use, and damage to vegetation.
In general, the Access Fund exhorts climbers to minimize all impacts associated with their activity. Fixed anchors cause minimal actual impact which can be reduced even further by camouflaging, and by only placing a fixed anchor when there is no alternative (removable gear, toproping, walk-off, etc.). The Access Fund does not support indiscriminate bolting (squeezing routes, bolting next to cracks), especially in sensitive areas such as wilderness.
The Access Fund believes sport climbing is as legitimate as any other type of climbing, although bolt-intensive, heavily used climbs may not be appropriate in some areas. On public lands, climbers should consult with local land managers to address impact issues constructively. Whether you're a trad, ice, alpine or sport climber, the highest priority must be to respect the resource, and to try and leave as little trace of your passage as possible so that other visitors may have an enjoyable experience. That's why the Access Fund strongly condemns manufacturing holds and other unnecessary resource damage. Fixed anchors are a requisite climbing tool; chipping and gluing are not, and have given climbers a bad image.
Climbers can be "effectual stewards" of the resources we love and still remain responsible for our own safety, which must be the province of the climber, not the government. If climbers use bolts judiciously, we can preserve both the crags and climbing opportunities in the future.
--Sam Davidson
The Access Fund welcomes letters from members or anyone who has questions about our policies, projects or programs. Letters may be edited for space and clarity. Send letters to: Managing Editor, Access Notes, P.O. Box 17010, Boulder, CO 80308.