Perhaps it's because the Texas and Oklahoma climbing areas are few and far between. Maybe it's the tradition of "bigger and better." Or it could be the legacy of the Wild West. Whatever the cause, this is a region of extremes; climbers here are exceptionally organized and proactive, and current situations are some of the most positive and negative in the country. Since 1989, the Access Fund has devoted significant time, energy and over $10,000 to this area, and has been working with local activists. From the proposal to ban climbing by a federal agency to acceptance by a historical association preserving rock art, these happenings may have far-reaching implications.
Troublesome and precedent-setting are developments in Oklahoma's Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. The US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), one of the four federal land management agencies, has proposed banning climbing in the refuge beginning October 1, 1994. Refuge officials claim that the sport is incompatible with the park's mission as a wildlife preserve and that it is not a wildlife-oriented activity.
In response, activists formed the Wichita Mountains Access Association (WMAA). Rounding up the locals was akin to herding cats; discussions were punctuated with disagreements. Fortunately Marion Hutchison, now the Access Fund regional coordinator for Oklahoma, roped in the unruly elements after a month on the telephone (and a $400 phone bill). Since WMAA's establishment three months ago, it's received support from the Oklahoma state legislature, Don Nickels (U.S. Senator from Oklahoma), the Lawton Chamber of Commerce and Oklahoma Wildlife Federation. In the works is a letter-writing campaign to send the USFWS comments on the proposed climbing ban. The Access Fund is providing $800 for mailing expenses and phone calls, and has pledged additional funding for future efforts.
Trying not to get spit off the bucking bronco is the challenge at Tenkiller Lake State Park, also in Oklahoma. Climbers have developed a number of sport climbs on the sandstone cliffs below the spillway. As the total number of visitors has increased, increased vandalism and liability during times of water release and floods at the spillway site concern park officials. Adeptly representing climbers' interests once again, Hutchison proposed solutions that included possible Access Fund financing of a parking area and modification of the special event permit to allow climbers' access.
South of the Texa-homa border is Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, a nature and wildlife preserve. Texas Parks and Wildlife considers rock climbing to be a compatible use here and has issued a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with the Central Texas Climbing Committee. This exemplary relationship has fostered cooperation and a positive working environment between climbers and park officials. Reinforcing this win-win situation, the Access Fund donated $7,500 to Texas Parks and Wildlife for trail work, a composting toilet and an educational brochure at the preserve. Instrumental here and in other Texas projects is Gail Billings, an Access Fund board member from Austin, Texas.
Another fruitful partnership is underway at Hueco Tanks. In February 1994, the El Paso Climbers Club held the Sixth Annual Rock Rodeo Bouldering Contest which benefits the Access Fund and route maintenance projects. Conflicts with park management have ended, and the climbing community is now considered an asset. However, the Tigua Indian tribe claims to have rights to Hueco Tanks and has complained about climbing and chalk marks; the Access Fund is monitoring the discussions. We've pledged to provide $2,000 for crushed rock to harden the ground under the bouldering sites that are of archeological value and threatened by erosion as well as $600 for educational signs.
Preserving rock art is also a priority at the Pecos River Bluffs near Del Rio, Texas. The Rock Art Foundation recently purchased this limestone area, and Central Texas Climbing Committee is negotiating an MOU with the Foundation which would allow climbing access. The Foundation deems climbing a compatible use and is considering signage and fencing at the pictograph sites; the Access Fund has pledged support for these protective measures.
The Access Fund congratulates and thanks all climbers and land managers who have worked toward solutions in these projects which are preserving access and taming the Wild West.
For more information about the WMAA, contact Marion Hutchison at (405) 360-2525.