Access Notes - Vol. 10 Summer 1995

Climber Activism Kills Radical Wisconsin Policy

A second proposed rule change, which would have forced climbers to buy a permit for climbing on state lands, was dropped after Wisconsin climbers objected strenuously to Devil's Lake Superintendent Tim Miller, who recommended the rule changes.

Devil's Lake climbers traditionally have eschewed bolts, but that area's famous quartzite and no-bolt ethic are unusual for the state. Local climbers claimed the proposed ban on fixed anchors was "a complete reversal" of the state's traditional hands-off climbing policy, and ignored the fact that much climbing in Wisconsin is found on sandstone outcrops where bolts may be the only possible type of protection or can actually help minimize impacts (for example, as top-rope anchors).

Norman Pazderski of the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR) admitted that few climbers were contacted for input during the public hearing process on these rule changes. Nancy Hall, one of the principal local climber activists, said the state has "misconceptions about climbing, the people who participate in it, and its impacts," and that the DNR sent announcements about public hearings on the rule changes to everyone but climbers. It's hard to believe this oversight was accidental; DNR had names, addresses and telephone numbers of several climbing organizations and 40-50 individuals who have been writing letters and attending meetings with the agency over the past two years.

In April, Hall and others began mobilizing a letter-writing campaign to oppose the rule change regarding fixed anchors. To obtain guidance and help publicize the issue, Hall contacted the Access Fund, which pledged financial aid and provided legal counsel. Previously, the Access Fund helped negotiate the reopening of the Old Sandstone area (still pending) and agreed to pay for climber education materials and signage at Devils Lake.

The immediate barrage of letters and phone calls to the DNR derailed the rulemaking train. Now that this proposed rule change has been dropped, Hall says, "The real work begins." The DNR has promised to form an advisory committee to review and develop climbing policy for state lands. This committee will be headed by Superintendent Miller of Devil's Lake. However, Miller's relationship with climbers to date has not established a firm foundation of climber trust, according to local sources.

A critical part of this new opportunity is the need to inform state officials about climbing safety systems and climbing history. Any climbers and climber organizations with an interest in climbing in Wisconsin are urged to contact Miller and the DNR immediately to request participation on the committee or to submit written comments on state climbing policy.

George Meyer, Secretary
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources
Box 7921
Madison, WI 53707-7921