Replied: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:05:29 -0400
Replied: "Jeff Vaughn <jvaughn@wadsworth.org> "
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From: Jeff Vaughn <jvaughn@wadsworth.org>
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Subject: Re: gunks
In-Reply-To: <10457.864432576@hendrix.nectar.cs.cmu.edu> from Todd Mummert at "May 23, 97 08:09:36 pm"
To: Todd.Mummert@cs.cmu.edu
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 12:43:16 -0400 (EDT)
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Todd:

Thanks for responding to the web ad! I've been in contact with two other
climbers so far, and I think it was one of the best things for hooking up
with potential partners.

_Unfortunately_ I will be away in Chicago for that week.  Although I am
flying out, I'm expecting that I will be bringing a few household items
back, and this means that I'll be driving back to Albany. The most
reasonable guess for me to make is that I won't be able to climb until
that Sunday, and it sounds like you won't be around then.

As far as climbing in the Gunks, there really isn't much I can say that's
bad.  Weekends have a tendency to get fairly crowded, but the routes
"taken" tend to be closer to the parking areas at the easy access trail
(called the "Trapps").  Walking for 15-20 min further tends to result in a
thinning of the crowd.  Otherwise, an area called the "Near Trapps,"
which is just as close although the access trails aren't so nice, usually
don't see nearly as much traffic. Bottom line is, it's easy to avoid the
crowds.  There are also a couple of excellent guidebooks, and for a review
of all the major lines I recommend Todd Swaine's Gunks guide.  (Dick
Williams also has an excellent series, but these are separate books
covering each climbing area individually.  Also more expensive).  There
are very few sport routes, and to a certain extent bolting is frowned upon
as well as being against park regulations; definitely a trad climbing
mecca.  The Adirondacks have a fantastic potential, as well.  Only last
year I started climbing some lines up there, and the climbing is
fantastic; very ballsy. (also there are some wall climbs --400-500ft--that
I'm not able to do yet, but have heard they are _excellent_)  One other
area is about an hour west of Albany in a city called Little Falls.
Routes are very short, usually 40 to 50' and no higher than 70 or 80', but
these routes will spank you off.  Excellent for training: hard,
underrated, very sustained, and _fun_. If you move up here, I think you'd
be really excited about all the areas.

So: If you are around after that weekend in June, or if you end up
working around here, drop me a line. It sounds like our abilities and
experience are on par with each other...

Wish you luck with your interview

Jeff



p.s.  A major condition for choosing a grad school was that I wanted to be
someplace to learn how to ski and climb (not the greatest availability for
that in Chicago).  To that end, I haven't been the least disappointed..
The climbers themselves seem to be extremely open and friendly, though, as
with any place, there are some assholes(!). 

Hope you enjoy the Gunks when you're up here!

  
