Goal: We wanted a dressing that wasn't too greasy and spinach that retained a slight but satisfying crunch.

Solution: Cut back on the usual 4-to-1 ratio of oil to acid so as not to overpower the delicate spinach, and add the lemon juice or vinegar once the oil and other ingredients have been heated to maintain brightness. To avoid overly wilted spinach, use just 1/4 cup of dressing for 6 cups of greens.

WILTED SPINACH SALAD WITH BACON AND BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4 as a first course

We prefer the ease of prewashed baby spinach, sold in 5-ounce packages in most supermarkets. If you choose to use bunched baby spinach instead, make sure to wash and dry the leaves well.

5 ounces baby spinach, about 6 cups
2 slices bacon (about 2 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 small red onion, minced (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Place spinach in large bowl. Fry bacon in small skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes; transfer with slotted spoon to paper towel–lined plate, leaving fat in skillet. Return skillet to medium heat and add oil, onion, salt, pepper, and sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is slightly softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar; swirl to incorporate. Pour warm dressing over spinach and toss gently to wilt. Sprinkle bacon over spinach; serve immediately.

WILTED SPINACH SALAD WITH FETA, OLIVES, AND LEMON VINAIGRETTE

5 ounces baby spinach, about 6 cups
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1 medium garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano leaves
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 1/4 cup)
6 black olives, sliced thin (about 2 tablespoons)

Place spinach in large bowl. Add oil, shallot, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, and sugar to small skillet and cook over medium heat until shallot is slightly softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add lemon juice; swirl to incorporate. Pour warm dressing over spinach, add feta and olives, and toss gently to wilt. Serve immediately.

WILTED SPINACH SALAD WITH ORANGES, RADISHES, AND CITRUS VINAIGRETTE

To cut neat orange sections free of membrane and pith, slice off the peel and pith using a very sharp paring knife and following the contour of the fruit. Then, holding the orange over a bowl and working section by section, slip the knife between the membrane and section and slice to the center. Turn the blade and slide it along the membrane on the second side of the section to completely free the section.

5 ounces baby spinach, about 6 cups
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1/4 teaspoon grated zest and segments from
2 medium oranges
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon
4 medium radishes, grated on large holes of box grater (about 1/3 cup)

Place spinach in large bowl. Add oil, shallot, orange zest, salt, pepper, and sugar to small skillet and cook over medium heat until shallot is slightly softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add lemon juice; swirl to incorporate. Pour warm dressing over spinach; add orange segments and grated radishes, and toss gently to wilt. Serve immediately.