The solution: A primary consideration when trying to create such a souffle is what to use as the "base," the mixture that gives substance and flavor to the souffle in contrast to the airiness and "lift" provided by the whipped egg whites. After trying several versions of bases, we found that we consistently preferred a bechamel base (a classic French sauce made with equal amounts of butter and flour, whisked with milk over heat). It provided the souffle with a puffed yet substantial texture. We noted, however, that the milk muted the chocolate flavor. To achieve a full chocolate flavor, we ended up removing the milk and the flour, separating the eggs (whites are whipped separately), increasing the amount of chocolate, and reducing the amount of butter. This approach resulted in a base of egg yolks beaten with sugar until thick. This gave the souffle plenty of volume but eliminated the flavor-muting milk. The result was fantastic and intensely chocolatey. After several more experiments we discovered that adding two egg whites gave the souffle even more lift and a better texture.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ

Serves 6 to 8

Rather than one large soufflé, you can make individual ones. To do so, completely fill eight 8-ounce ramekins with the chocolate mixture, making sure to clean each rim with a wet paper towel and reduce baking time to sixteen to eighteen minutes. For a mocha-flavored soufflé, add one tablespoon of instant coffee powder dissolved in one tablespoon of hot water when adding the vanilla to the chocolate mixture. If you are microwave oriented, melt the chocolate at 50 percent power for three minutes, stirring in the butter after two minutes.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 tablespoon softened, remaining
4 tablespoons cut into 1/2-inch chunks)
1 tablespoon plus 1/3 cup sugar
8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped coarse
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier
6 large egg yolks
8 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Butter inside of 2-quart soufflé dish with the 1 tablespoon softened butter, then coat inside of dish evenly with the 1 tablespoon sugar; refrigerate until ready to use.

2. Melt chocolate and remaining butter in medium bowl set over pan of simmering water. Turn off heat, stir in salt, vanilla, and liqueur; set aside.

3. In medium bowl, beat yolks and remaining sugar with electric mixer set on medium speed until thick and pale yellow, about 3 minutes. Fold into chocolate mixture. Clean beaters.

4. In medium bowl, beat whites with electric mixer set on medium speed until foamy. Add cream of tartar and continue to beat on high speed to stiff, moist peaks. (Mixture should just hold the weight of a raw egg in the shell when the egg is placed on top.)

5. Vigorously stir one-quarter of whipped whites into chocolate mixture. Gently fold remaining whites into mixture until just incorporated. Fold whites by starting at the top of the bowl, use the spatula edge to cut through the middle of the mixture. Next, turn the edge of the spatula toward you so it moves up the side of the bowl. Continue this motion, going full circle, until the spatula is back at the center again. Follow this procedure four more times, turning the bowl a quarter turn each time. Finally, use the spatula to scrape around the entire circumference of the bowl. Spoon mixture into prepared dish; bake until exterior is set but interior is still a bit loose and creamy, about 25 minutes. (Soufflé is done when fragrant and fully risen. Use two large spoons to pull open the top and peek inside. If not yet done, place back in oven.) Serve immediately.

MAKE-AHEAD CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ

This technique only works for the individual chocolate soufflés, which can be made and frozen up to two days before baking.

Follow instructions for Chocolate Soufflé, coating eight 1-cup ramekins with butter and sugar. Rather than beating sugar with yolks, bring sugar and 2 tablespoons water to boil in small saucepan, then simmer until sugar dissolves. With mixer running, slowly add this sugar syrup to egg yolks; beat until mixture triples in volume, about 3 minutes. Beat egg whites until frothy; add cream of tartar and beat to soft peaks; add 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar; continue beating to stiff peaks. Fill each ramekin almost to rim, wiping excess filling from rim with wet paper towel. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees; bake until fully risen, 16 to 18 minutes. Do not overbake.

September, 1996
Original article and recipes by Christopher Kimball and Eva Katz

 
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