The solution: We solved this latter problem by adding some milk. Not only did it tame the yogurt flavor but also when put over low heat it was able to dissolve the sugar and offer an easy way to add vanilla bean flavor. For cutting down on iciness, we found that draining the yogurt was helpful as well as using a small amount of gelatin. Gelatin is often used to give low-fat desserts a creamy, smooth texture. In some sense, it acts like eggs. In premium ice creams egg yolks are responsible for their smooth texture.

For Good Measure: Unlike commercial products, which are usually filled with stabilizers and/or preservatives, homemade frozen yogurt has a short shelf life. Temperature fluctuations in home freezers promote iciness in all homemade frozen desserts, with melting and freezing taking their toll fairly quickly. After two days frozen yogurt becomes icy, so it is best eaten the day it is made, or perhaps the following day.

VANILLA FROZEN YOGURT

Makes 1 generous quart

2 cups low-fat plain yogurt
2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
1 3/4 cups whole milk
1 cup minus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 5-inch piece vanilla bean, slit lengthwise

1. Spoon yogurt into fine-mesh strainer set over glass measuring cup. Place measuring cup in refrigerator; let drain until yogurt releases 1/2 cup liquid, 1 to 2 hours.

2. Sprinkle gelatin over 1/4 cup of the milk in a small bowl; let stand, stirring frequently, until gelatin swells, about 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 1/2 cups milk, sugar, and vanilla bean in small saucepan, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Remove pan from heat.

4. Add swelled gelatin to hot milk-sugar mixture, stirring until completely dissolved. Scrape seeds from softened vanilla bean into mixture, whisking seeds to evenly distribute; discard bean. Cool to room temperature, then mix with drained yogurt.

5. Refrigerate yogurt mixture until it cools to at least 40 degrees. Pour chilled gelatinous mixture into canister of ice cream machine; churn until frozen. (Can be served as soft frozen yogurt at this point, or can be stored in a sealed plastic container for 2 days before it becomes icy.)

CHOCOLATE FROZEN YOGURT

Makes 1 generous quart

Cocoa powder delivers a strong chocolate punch without adding an excessive amount of fat or calories. I prefer Dutch-processed cocoa in this recipe. It has a mellower flavor and is not as harsh as natural cocoa.

Follow recipe for Vanilla Frozen Yogurt, increasing sugar to 1 cup and whisking 6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa, along with sugar, into milk. Omit vanilla bean but stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract after the milk mixture cools to room temperature.

COFFEE FROZEN YOGURT

Makes 1 generous quart

If you prefer to use fresh-brewed coffee, steep three tablespoons of coarse-ground coffee in the hot milk until strongly flavored, about 20 minutes. Strain and discard the coffee grounds. Reheat the mixture before mixing in the gelatin.

Follow recipe for Vanilla Frozen Yogurt, increasing sugar to 1 cup and whisking 6 to 7 teaspoons instant espresso powder into hot sugar-milk mixture. Omit vanilla bean but stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract after milk mixture cools to room temperature.

STRAWBERRY FROZEN YOGURT

Makes 1 generous quart

Really ripe, sweet fruit will make a tremendous difference in this recipe. The liquid in the strawberries means that this frozen yogurt will become icy fairly quickly, so rather than storing it, you are better off eating it the day it is made.

2 cups low-fat plain yogurt
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup whole milk
2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

1. Follow step 1 in recipe for Vanilla Frozen Yogurt.

2. Meanwhile, mix berries, 1/4 cup of the sugar, and vanilla in medium bowl. Crush fruit lightly with potato masher; macerate at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Pour 1/4 cup of the milk into small bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over milk; let stand, stirring frequently, until gelatin swells, about 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3/4 cup milk and 1/2 cup sugar in small saucepan, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat.

5. Add swelled gelatin into hot milk-sugar mixture, stirring until completely dissolved. Cool to room temperature, then mix, along with crushed strawberries, with drained yogurt.

6. Follow step 5 in recipe for Vanilla Frozen Yogurt. (Can be kept frozen for 1 day before becoming icy.)

RASPBERRY FROZEN YOGURT

Makes 1 generous quart

Raspberries can be handled much like strawberries. However, the fruit mixture needs to be strained to remove the seeds.

Follow recipe for Strawberry Frozen Yogurt, substituting 4 cups fresh raspberries or 1 bag (20 ounces) frozen and thawed raspberries for the strawberries. After macerating 1 hour, strain fruit through fine-mesh strainer to remove seeds, then proceed with the recipe.