Foolproof Meringues
Challenge: Although the ingredients could not be simpler or less expensive, many home cooks shy away from meringues because they think they are too sweet or too temperamental. This recipe, by Flo Braker, author of The Simple Art of Perfect Baking (Chapters 1992), has just enough sugar to ensure that the meringues harden properly but not so much that they are cloying. The second point is true. Meringues can be fickle. But we include a number of tips to eliminate the guesswork, even on rainy days.

Solution: Troubleshooting Tips: Meringues must be piped or shaped immediately after they are made. Even a short rest can allow the moisture from the egg whites to separate and form a thin syrup that causes the whites to deflate. Adding the sugar to the meringues in three stages (see recipe) also produces maximum volume and optimum texture. The most common complaint by cooks is that their meringues never "set up" in the oven. Meringues are not supposed to harden completely in the oven. While low heat will dry them out, meringues do not become hard and crisp until they have had a chance to cool for five or ten minutes.

Classic Meringue
Makes 2 large disks or 8 individual shells

4 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/2 cup (about 4 large) egg whites, at room temperature

1. Sift 2 tablespoons granulated sugar with confectioners’ sugar; set aside.
2. Place egg whites in large bowl of electric mixer. Using whisk attachment, whip them on low speed just until frothy. Increase speed to medium, sprinkle in 2 tablespoons reserved granulated sugar, and continue whipping to soft peaks. Gradually add 1/3 cup reserved granulated sugar; continue whipping to stiff, glossy peaks. Stop mixer; rub some meringue between your fingers. If smooth, proceed to next step. If still grainy, continue beating until smooth.
3. Sprinkle sifted powdered-sugar mixture (and ground ginger and cinnamon if making Free-Form Meringue Shell; see below) over meringue; fold in with rubber spatula until just incorporated. Immediately continue with one of the recipes below.

ALMOND MERINGUE CAKE WITH STRAWBERRY AND VANILLA
ICE CREAM
Serves 8 to 10

If you have any meringue left after piping the two disks, make a few dessert shells. To soften the ice cream, place it in the refrigerator about thirty minutes before needed. And remember, not all of the ice cream is needed at the same time. If you need ice cream softened in a hurry, you can also microwave it on the defrost setting, checking it every thirty seconds at first, and then every fifteen seconds as it reaches the softened state.

Vegetable cooking spray
1/3 cup fine-chopped almonds
1 recipe Classic Meringue
1 quart strawberry ice cream, softened slightly
1 quart vanilla ice cream, softened slightly
11/2 cups sliced almonds, toasted
Fresh strawberries for garnish;optional

1. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position; heat oven to 225 degrees. Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Use a compass to make 8-inch and 6H-inch circles on parchment paper (see illustration 1, "How To Make Meringue Shell" PDF, see below). Lightly spray each circle with cooking spray to ensure easy removal of meringues. Fit large pastry bag with 1/2-inch plain decorating tip.
2. Fold chopped almonds into Classic Meringue recipe. Immediately scoop meringue into prepared pastry bag. Follow instructions in illustrations 2 and 3 ("How To Make A Meringue Shell" PDF, see below) to secure paper and pipe meringue circles. Pipe a couple of 11/2-inch disks with any excess meringue. These extra meringues are used to test for doneness.
3. Bake meringues until one of the test samples releases easily from paper and snaps crisply after 5 minutes of cooling, 60 to 80 minutes. Once sample is crisp when tested, remove baking sheet from oven and place on cooling rack until meringue disks are room temperature, about 30 minutes. Carefully remove cooled meringues from paper. Place larger disk on 9-inch round piece of cardboard or removable tart-pan bottom. Place smaller disk on similar surface. Freeze both disks for 30 minutes. (Can also be stored in an airtight container up to 2 weeks; upon removal, freeze the disks before adding topping.)
4. Follow illustrations 4 through 8 ("How To Make A Meringue Shell" PDF, see below) to assemble cake. Return cake to freezer for at least 4 hours or up to 1 day. About 15 minutes before serving, transfer cake to serving platter and garnish with strawberries. Use knife to cut cake into wedges and serve immediately.

FREE-FORM MERINGUE SHELLS FILLED WITH STRAWBERRIES AND PAPAYA
Serves 8

To form these meringue shells, you don’t need a pastry bag or decorating tips, just a regular tablespoon. Once made, these meringue shells make an impressive, quick dessert filled with fruit, ice cream, or mousse.

Vegetable cooking spray
1 recipe Classic Meringue with 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger and 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced lengthwise
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon grated zest from small orange
1 small papaya, peeled, halved, and seeded; each half halved crosswise and sliced thin

1. Adjust oven racks to low and middle positions; heat oven to 225 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Use a compass or 4-inch biscuit cutter to make four 4-inch circles on each paper (see illustration 1, "How To Make A Meringue Shell" PDF, see below). Lightly spray each circle with cooking spray to ensure easy removal of meringues.
2. Place 1/2-teaspoon dollop of meringue in corners of each baking sheet to hold paper in place. Drop 1/2 cup meringue in center of each circle (illustration 9, "How To Make A Meringue Shell" PDF, see below). With back of spoon, carefully spread meringue inside each circle. Continue to use back of spoon to make an indentation in meringue center, forming a decorative cup about 1/4-inch thick in center and 1-inch high around edge (illustration 10, "How To Make A Meringue Shell" PDF, see below). Shape a couple of 11/2-inch disks with the spoon and remaining meringue. These extra meringues are used to test for doneness.
3. Bake meringues, switching positions of baking sheets after 30 minutes, until one of test samples releases easily from paper and snaps crisply after 5 minutes of cooling, 60 to 80 minutes. Once sample is crisp when tested, remove baking sheets from oven and place on cooling racks until meringues are room temperature, about 30 minutes. Carefully remove cooled meringues from paper. Set aside until ready to fill. (Can be stored in an airtight container up to 2 weeks.)
4. Toss berries, sugar, and orange zest in small bowl; let stand until light syrup forms, about 30 minutes. Add papaya and toss gently.
5. Place one meringue shell on each serving plate. Divide fruit and syrup among shells. Serve immediately.

May, 1995


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Original article and recipes by Jack Bishop