The solution: After traveling a long and winding road, we learned that it is possible to make such a baguette at home. We also learned that we had a lot to learn about bread making, including some new techniques and terminology.

Note: For a blow-by-blow description of the recipe development process, you should consult the magazine article, "The Ultimate Homemade Baguette," published in the March/April 2000 issue of Cook’s. If you want only enough information to make the recipe, the following explanations of somewhat technical terms should be enough. Please note the link at the bottom of the page for the "rating chart" - it is actually the illustrated spread of how to form the baguette.

Pre-ferment: This a rising method that takes longer than the more usual direct-rise method, in which flour and water are mixed with commercial yeast, causing the dough to rise adequately in only an hour or two. In the pre-ferment method, a very small amount of yeast is mixed with flour and water and left to rise for several hours or overnight. The pre-ferment allows for the development of more flavor than the modern direct-rise method.

Sponge: There are two or three types of pre-ferment, and we chose to make a sponge, which calls for thinnish mixture of flour and water and a small amount of yeast.

Drop: This term describes the sponge collapsing under its own weight after its initial rise. The drop is a sign that the sponge is ready for action—that is, kneading. (Note: One thing we learned about kneading is that using a mixer can overheat the dough, causing irreparable damage. Hand-kneading became our method of choice.)

Crash: While the usual procedure in bread making is to sprinkle with the dough with flour as necessary during kneading to develop the right consistency, we learned from a professional baker that when added in this way, the flour doesn’t really work its way into the dough but instead slides around on the surface. Real friction must be generated for proper gluten development. A relatively dry dough, vigorously hand-kneaded, welcomes incremental additions of water to bring it to the correct hydration. We also discovered that a technique known as crashing, in which the dough is picked up and flung repeatedly against the counter, worked beautifully to incorporate water. The doughs we produced using this technique had a far more satiny texture than did the wet doughs to which we added flour. The bread had a far nicer crumb as well.

Windowpane: All of the above notwithstanding, our single most important discovery about mixing technique was "windowpaning." In windowpaning, when you think the dough is fully kneaded, you stretch a small amount between your fingers. If it can be stretched until it is very thin, almost translucent, the dough has been adequately kneaded. Should it tear while being stretched, more kneading is required.

BAKERY-STYLE FRENCH BAGUETTES
Makes two 15 by 3-inch baguettes

For this recipe you will need an instant-read thermometer, a scale, a lame or a single edge razor blade, a rectangular pizza stone, and a spray bottle filled with water. We prefer SAF instant or Perfect Rise yeast, but other instant dry yeasts work as well. For the sponge, the ideal ambient temperature is 75 degrees; if it is cooler, fermentation will take longer. This recipe will yield baguettes for breakfast; the following version uses altered rising times so that the baguettes are baked in time for dinner. In either case, begin the recipe the day before you intend to serve the bread; the baguettes will emerge from the oven 20 to 24 hours after you start the sponge. Do not add flour while kneading or shaping the dough. The baguettes are best served within 2 hours after baking.

Sponge
1/8 teaspoon instant dry yeast or ¼ teaspoon regular dry yeast
6 ounces (by weight) bottled or spring water,
110 to 115 degrees
6 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour, preferably King Arthur

Dough
½ teaspoon instant dry yeast or ¾ teaspoon regular dry yeast
4 ounces (by weight) bottled or spring water, 75 degrees, plus additional 2 teaspoons water if
necessary
10 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour, preferably King Arthur
1 teaspoon salt

Glaze
1 large egg white, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

1. For the sponge: Combine yeast, water, and flour in medium bowl and stir together with wooden spoon to form thick batter. Scrape down bowl with rubber spatula. Cover with plastic wrap and punch a couple of holes in plastic wrap with paring knife; let stand at room temperature. After 4 or 5 hours, sponge should be almost doubled in size and pitted with tiny bubbles. Let stand at room temperature until surface shows slight depression in center, indicating the drop, 2 to 3 hours longer. The sponge now is ready to use.

2. For the dough: To sponge, add yeast and all but 2 tablespoons water. Stir briskly with wooden spoon until water is incorporated, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and continue mixing with wooden spoon until a scrappy ball forms. Turn dough onto countertop and knead by hand, adding drops of water if necessary, until dry bits are absorbed into dough, about 2 minutes. Dough will feel dry and tough. Stretch dough into rough 8 by 6-inch rectangle, make indentations in dough with fingertips, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon remaining water (see illustration 1, below), fold edges of dough up toward center to encase water, and pinch edges to seal. Knead dough lightly, about 30 seconds (dough will feel slippery as some water escapes but will become increasingly pliant as the water is absorbed). Begin crashing by flinging the dough vigorously against the countertop and kneading dough alternately until soft and supple and surface is almost powdery smooth, about 7 minutes. Stretch dough again into rough 8 by 6-inch rectangle and make indentations with fingertips; sprinkle dough with salt and remaining tablespoon water. Repeat folding and sealing edges and crashing and kneading until dough is once again soft and supple and surface is almost powdery smooth, about 7 minutes. If dough still feels tough and nonpliant, knead in 2 additional teaspoons water.

3. Test dough to determine if adequately kneaded by performing windowpane test (well-kneaded dough can be stretched into a nearly translucent membrane). If dough tears before stretching thin, knead 5 minutes longer and test again. Gather dough into ball, place in large bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand 30 minutes, then remove dough from bowl and knead gently to deflate, about 10 seconds; gather into ball, return to bowl, and replace plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 ½ hours.

4. Decompress dough by gently pushing a fist in center of dough toward bottom of bowl (see illustration 2); turn dough onto work surface. With dough scraper, divide dough into two 12-ounce pieces. Working one at a time, with second piece covered with plastic wrap on work surface, cup hands stiffly around dough and drag in short half-circular motions toward edge of counter (see illustration 3) until dough forms rough torpedo shape with taut rounded surface, about 6½ inches long. (As you drag the dough, its tackiness will pull on the work surface, causing the top to scroll down and to the back to create a smooth, taut surface.) Repeat with second piece of dough. Drape plastic wrap over dough on work surface; let rest to relax dough, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, line an inverted rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Working one at a time, with second piece covered with plastic wrap, roll torpedo seam-side up and press indentation along length of dough with side of outstretched hand (see illustration 4). Working along length of dough, press thumb of one hand against dough while folding and rolling upper edge of dough down with other hand to enclose thumb (see illustration 5). Repeat folding and rolling 4 or 5 times until upper edge meets lower edge and creates seam (see illustration 6); press seam to seal. Dough will have formed cylinder about 12 inches long. Roll dough cylinder seam-side down; gently and evenly roll and stretch dough until it measures 15 inches long by 2½ inches wide (see illustration 7). Place seam-side down on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with second dough piece. Space shaped dough pieces about 6 inches apart on baking sheet. Drape clean dry kitchen towel over dough and slide baking sheet into large clean garbage bag; seal to close. Refrigerate until dough has risen moderately, at least 12 but no longer than 16 hours.

6. To bake: Remove one oven rack from oven; adjust second oven rack to lowest position. Place pizza stone on rack in oven and heavy rimmed baking sheet on oven floor. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Remove baking sheet with baguettes from refrigerator and let baguettes stand covered at room temperature 45 minutes; remove plastic bag and towel to let surface of dough dry, then let stand 15 minutes longer. The dough should have risen to almost double in bulk and feel springy to the touch. Meanwhile, bring 1 cup water to simmer in small saucepan on stovetop.

7. With a lame or single-edge razor blade, make five ¼-inch deep diagonal slashes on each baguette (see illustration 8). Brush baguette with egg white and mist with water. Working quickly, slide parchment sheet with baguettes off baking sheet and onto hot pizza stone. Pour simmering water onto baking sheet on oven floor and quickly close oven door. Bake, rotating loaves front to back and side to side after 10 minutes, until deep golden brown and instant-read thermometer inserted into center of bread through bottom crust registers 205 to 210 degrees, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to wire rack; cool 30 minutes.

DINNER BAGUETTES

The altered rising times in this version help get the baguettes on the table at the same time as dinner.

Follow recipe for Bakery-Style French Baguettes, starting the sponge at about noon and using 75-degree water; let sponge rise 5 to 6 hours, then refrigerate overnight, 12 to 14 hours. In step 2, make dough using 110-degree water. Continue with recipe to knead, rise, and shape. Place shaped and covered dough in refrigerator until slightly risen, 7 to 10 hours. Continue with recipe from step 6.

HOW A BAGUETTE COMES TOGETHER
Add the remaining water (1), then gently punch the dough down to degas it (2). Round the dough with half-circular motions (3), then use the side of your hand to form an indentation (4). Roll the sealed upper edge over your thumb (5), then repeat his process several times to form a seam (6). Stretch and roll the dough into a baguette shape (7), then slash it diagonally (8).

March, 2000


Click Here to View PDF file of the rating chart.




Original article and recipes by Kay Rentschler

 
SEE ALSO:

All-Purpose Flour: Does the Brand Matter?
Bread Lame