The solution: We found our time-saving steps at the beginning and end of the process. First, we substituted rapid-rise yeast for regular active yeast. The rolls completed their first and second rise in just over an hour; more than two hours were required with regular active yeast. Last, we decided against making any "fancy" shapes that take the nonprofessional baker lots of time to master. Instead, we simply cut triangular pillow shapes from the dough after rolling it into the shape of a baguette.
The key to rich flavor and soft texture turned out to be butterfat. We ultimately used 1 stick of butter for every 3 1/2 cups of flour (we had started out with only half a stick). We also ended up replacing the water called for in many recipes with milk. This extra fat not only made the dough richer and softer, it also helped the rolls bake up to a beautiful golden brown.

For good measure: The kind of flour you use can make a difference. We tried bleached all-purpose (which gave the rolls a nice texture but a slightly off flavor) and bread flour (which made the rolls too tough and chewy). Unbleached all-purpose flour outclassed both.

RICH AND TENDER AMERICAN
DINNER ROLLS

Makes about 2 dozen triangular rolls

To ensure the softest, most tender rolls, avoid flouring the work surface during hand kneading; if necessary, flour your hands instead. The flour that you use to dust the work surface during shaping stays on the surface of the dough and is meant to give the rolls a soft, delicate look. The dough is best made in a standing mixer; there is too large a quantity of soft dough for a food processor, and it is difficult to make by hand. You will need four cookie sheets for this recipe.

1¼ cups whole milk
2 tablespoons sugar
1 package rapid-rise yeast
1 large egg, beaten lightly
3½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour, plus extra for work surface and dusting rolls
1½ teaspoons salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces and softened

1. Adjust oven rack to low position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Once oven reaches 200 degrees, maintain oven temperature 10 minutes, then turn off oven heat.

2. Microwave milk and sugar in microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl at full power until warm (about 95 degrees). (Alternatively, heat milk and sugar in small saucepan over medium heat until warm; remove from heat.) Whisk to dissolve sugar. Sprinkle yeast over surface of liquid, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside for 10 minutes to soften yeast. Whisk egg into milk mixture, dissolving yeast.

3. Combine flour and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment; mix on lowest speed to blend, about 15 seconds. With mixer running, add milk mixture in steady stream; mix on low speed until flour is just moistened, about 1 minute. With mixer running, add butter one piece at a time; increase speed to medium and beat until combined and dough is scrappy, about 2 minutes. Replace paddle with dough hook and knead dough until smooth but still sticky, about 4 minutes. Scrape dough out onto work surface. Knead by hand until very smooth and soft but no longer sticky, about 1 minute; do not add more flour. Transfer dough to large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and place in warm oven until dough doubles in bulk, about 45 minutes.

4. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Punch down dough, replace plastic wrap, and let dough rest 5 minutes. Turn dough onto lightly floured work surface and, pat dough into 9-inch square. Fold dough into thirds, folding upper 3 inches down and lower 3 inches up. Pinch together edges to seal. Next, using the sideof your outstretched hand, firmly press an indentation along the length of the dough. Fold and roll upper sealed edge of dough toward center indentation, pressing firmly with your fingertips to seal. Pull the upper edges of the dough down over the thick portion to meet the seam, pressing with your fingertips to seal. repeat 5 or 6 times. The dough will lengthen and form a taut, narrow cylinder about 17 inches long. Dust with flour, then roll the dough seamside up and pinch firmly to seal. Next, press an indentation into the length of the dough along the seam with the side of your open hand. repeat steps 4 or 5 to form a long, taut cylinder. Gently stretch and roll the dough cylinder until it measures 36 inches long and about 2 1/2 inches wide. Finally, holding a bench scraper at a 45 degree angle to the cylinder, lop off one end. Cut triangular-shaped rolls along the dough, alternating the scraper 45-degrees to the right and left. You should get about 24 rolls. Transfer rolls to cookie sheet, then cover with clean kitchen towels and let rise until almost doubled in bulk, 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions; heat oven to 375 degrees.

5. Slide each cookie sheet with rolls onto another cookie sheet to prevent bottom crust from overbrowning; bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes, rotating cookie sheets front to back and switching positions from top to bottom halfway through baking time. Transfer rolls immediately to wire rack; cool 5 minutes and serve.