- specialize to surface waves: hk 1, then . Solution = sum of short and long surface wave solutions =
- specialize to long surface waves, then . then . (surface gravity waves 10cm) Calculation yields .
- specialize to short surface waves (gravity drops out) Calculation yields , so
- specialize to shallow water waves: and long waves, so then . By calculation, you get

Examples:

source psfile jl@crush.caltech.edu index

shallow_water_wave

deep_water_wave