Parts List for Tekkotsu Planar Hand-Eye System version of 1/08/2009 2"x2" square aluminum tube 1 McMaster-Carr 88875K673 (3 ft. length, cut to 2') alternative: 2"x2" square clear acrylic tube McMaster-Carr 8516K39 (6 ft. length, cut to 2') 2"x2" OD, 1.74" ID square finishing plug 1 McMaster-Carr 9565K31 large C-clamp 1 McMaster-Carr 5027A13 (or Harbor Freight -- cheaper) U-channel 1.625" x 1.625" 1 McMaster-Carr 3230T61 hex bolt 5/16-24 L2.5" 1 McMaster-Carr 91247A118 hex nut 5/16-24 1 McMaster-Carr 90494A230 5/16" washers 2 McMaster-Carr 90126A030 M2 L8mm self-tapping machine screws 3 Amazon ASIN: B00186WZJE : attach rod to camera plate M2 L8mm machine screws 24 McMaster-Carr 92005A029 M2 L10mm machine screws 8 McMaster-Carr 92005A033 : attach camera plate to F2 frame ABS plastic rod OD 1/2" L1.55" 1 McMaster-Carr 8587K43 (5 foot length, cut to 1.55") M3 L12mm machine screws 3 McMaster-Carr 92005A122 \ M3 L3mm hex standoffs 3 McMaster-Carr 92080A401 attach USB module to pillar M3 nuts 3 McMaster-Carr 90591A121 / slotted steel spring pins OD 1/16" L1/2" 4 McMaster-Carr 92383A106 (or maybe 91598A106 -- coiled pin) forearm tube: aluminum OD 1/2" ID 0.43" L3.375" 1 McMaster-Carr 8978K143 or Lynx Motion AT-06 biceps tube: aluminum OD 1/2" ID 0.43" L4.5" 1 same rod stock as forearm, or Lynx Motion AT-03 aluminum tube connector hub 4 Lynx Motion (HUB-08, 2 per pack; need 2 packs) 3/8 inch metal ball casters 2 Polulu.com part # 0951 AX-12+ servo 5 Robotis M2 L6mm machine screws lots comes with servo M2 nuts lots comes with servo 7.2 inch servo cable 5 comes with servo 3.5 inch servo cable 1 Robotis, or fabricate (connects pan to tilt) F2 frame 2 comes with servo F3 frame 5 comes with servo F4 frame 3 Robotis, or fabricate 12V 5A (60 watt) power adaptor 1 Robotis (or E-ITX.com, or LogicSupply.com) tie wraps 2 heat shrink tubing Logitech Pro 9000 webcam 1 Amazon or NewEgg acrylic camera plate 1 laser cut from 4.5mm acrylic Dynamixel USB interface module 1 RoPro Design (originally sold by HUV Robotics) USB extension cable: A-male-to-B-male, 6' 1 cablewholesale.com 10U2-02206BK USB hub 1 Amazon, NewEgg, or any computer vendor ================ Parts notes: Cheaper C-clamps than the $17 one specified here are available from discount houses such as Harbor Freight, which offers them for just a couple of dollars. Just make sure the clamp can open to 4 inches in order to accomodate thick tables. To make the two custom servo cables for the arm, start with three 7.25" servo cables that come with the servos. Cut the connector off one end of two of these cables and place a 1/4" piece of heat shrink tubing on each wire, moving it far away from the cut end. Cut the remaining cable into two pieces approximately 2.5" and 4.5" inches long. Then splice everything together, taking care that corresponding and not opposite wires are connected. Solder the splices, then slide the heat shrink tubing over the splice and shrink it. To make the custom servo cable that runs up the pillar to the pan/tilt, cut one 7.25" cable in half and splice in a couple of feet of wire. To fabricate the aluminum tubes, use McMaster-Carr 8978K143 Rigid Aluminum Tubing, 1/2" OD, 0.43" ID, 0.035" Wall Thickness, 3' length. Or order 8978K595 for 6' length. The biceps tube is 4.5 inches long; the forearm tube is 3.75 inches long. If using Lynx Motion aluminum tubes, don't trust their holes to line up; always check them first. Plug both the camera and USB interface module into the USB hub, and then run the 6' extension cable from the hub to the PC. If using acrylic tube instead of aluminum for the pillar, use a high helix angle 1/8" end mill to cut the openings: McMaster-Carr 2983A31. ================ Assembling the arm: The F4 frame has a boss on one side that restricts the range of travel of the arm joints. Mill this boss down by 0.225 inches to remove the travel impediment. It doesn't need to milled down any further than that because other parts of the arm will collide before anything hits the milled down edge. To attach hubs to tubes: use 4-40 screws (included with the hubs) to hold hubs and tube together temporarily. Drill two 0.063" diameter holes all the way through the hub and the tube, 90 degrees apart. Then insert a spring pin and gently tap it into position with a hammer. The spring pins provide a much tighter connection between hub and tube. Repeat for the second pin. Two pins will provide a perfectly rigid attachment. Leave the 4-40 screws in place to provide extra strength and cover the hole. Using super glue, attach one metal ball caster to the bottom of the F4 frames used for the wrist and elbow, in between the two sets of small holes. Just apply glue to the flanges of the caster itself; do not use any of the backplates or mounting hardware that comes with the caster. The shoulder joint does not need a caster. Use M2 L6mm machine screws to attach frames to servos, and to attach aluminum hubs to F3 frames. Use M2 L8mm machine screws to attach the wrist F2 frame to the wrist F4 frame, and to attach the aluminum hubs to the shoulder and elbow F4 frames. (You can't use L8mm screws to attach the aluminum hubs to F3 frames because this would interfere with attaching the F3 frame to the servo body, so you have to use the shorter L6mm screws, even though it's not ideal.) Thread each arm servo cable through the slot at the top of the F4 frame and then wind it around the aluminum tube (one turn suffices) and use a tie-wrap to hold it in place. ================ Assembling the camera mount: 1. To prepare ABS plastic rod for mounting the camera, cut to 1.55" length and then mill a flat face 0.060" in from the edge, along the whole length. Then drill three 0.063" starter holes in the flat face, 12mm apart, centered, i.e., the middle hole should be 0.775" in from the edge. 2. Attach the acrylic camera plate to the F2 frame using eight M2 L10mm machine screws and eight M2 nuts. 3. Attach the rod to the acrylic camera plate using three M2 L8mm self-tapping screws. 4. Remove the stock camera mount by unscrewing three screws in the mount, then peeling the two halves of the mount apart and unscrewing four more screws inside. 5. Glue the rod to the back of the camera using Weld-On 3 acrylic cement. Make sure that the plane of the camera lens is parallel to the acrylic camera plate; clamp it into position until the cement dries. ================ More assembly advice: Trick for routing the camera USB cable: the cable is bulky, so route it through the pillar before inserting the servo cable. Start by inserting the camera cable through the hole in the top front face of the pillar and run it all the way down the pillar and out the bottom end. Pull it all the way through but leave enough slack for the pan/tilt to move. Then fold the last foot of the cable in half and insert it back up through the bottom end of the pillar and through the hole in the back face. ================ Servo ID programming: isolate each servo in turn and do: /usr/local/Tekkotsu/tools/Dynamixel set all Joint Name Servo ID ARM:shldr 1 ARM:elbow 2 ARM:wrist 3 NECK:pan 4 NECK:tilt 5 To check IDs after all servos are connected, do: /usr/local/Tekkotsu/tools/Dynamixel scan 1-5 ================ Alternate screw selection: M2.2 L9.5mm self-tapping machine screws 3 McMaster-Carr 94997A130 : attach rod to camera plate